The city of Murcia begins two weeks of fiestas with a marathon of penitential processions

Holy Week in the Region of Murcia is a memorable occasion, and the Semana Santa celebrations have been awarded International Tourist Interest status due to the sheer scale of what occurs here. The collection of sculptures owned by the Cofradias or bortherhoods is hugely impressive, including one of the most important baroque sculptural collections in Spain, those by Francisco Salzillo, which are paraded on Good Friday.

Although Murcia is renowned for the scale of its processions, there are many experiences to be enjoyed within the week, stripping the grandeur and pomp out of the occasion and making it all the more enjoyable for locals as an expression of their faith, community and traditions.

 

Don't just come to Murcia and buy a seat to watch a procession, thinking that this is what Semana Santa in Murcia is all about, because it's not! The joy of this week is watching the ‘bidding" ceremonies taking place in the streets, hearing the muffled sounds of drums in the distance, being there when the statue is lowered through the window of the church because it's too big to fit through the door, watching the stain of red robes spread across Puente Vieja as 4,000 Coloraos walk along the banks and cross the river during their procession on the Wednesday night or, for many most importantly, just enjoying a few tapas and a drink as the hustle and bustle of Semana Santa passes by.

 

Possibly the most attractive processions are those of the Salzillos on Good Friday morning, the "Coloraos" on the evening of Holy Wednesday and the atmospheric procession of silence on the night of Maundy Thursday.

 

But bear in mind that you won’t be the only one there by any means: be prepared to park outside the city centre and walk to the procession route, having to patiently work your way through large crowds!

 

2023 Semana Santa Program in Murcia March 31 to April 9

NOTE: ALL TIMINGS ARE PROVISIONAL PENDING CONFIRMATION AND PROCESSIONS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CANCELLATION IN THE EVENT OF ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS

 

Friday March 31, Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows)

The first event is the last Via Crucis of Lent to take place, leaving from outside the Cathedral at 6.00 in the morning and roaming the streets of Murcia. From first light you'll see members of the Cofradia of El Amparo which is taking part in the night-time procession carrying out what is called "bidding".

 

Members of the Cofradia can be seen in the old quarter calling the faithful to remind them that their procession will be taking place soon. The faithful are summoned with a long instrument, reminiscent of the enormous great horns used in the Alps, which emits a harsh booming sound, almost like a donkey braying. These instruments are transported on wheeled trolleys as they're so unwieldy. Traditionally these "bidders" walked around the homes of those who had not yet paid their dues, calling them to do so and join in with the procession, but nowadays it’s more of a ritual. This happens all week, as the different Cofradias take to the streets.

 

In the evening is the parade of "the blues" who have their headquarters at the church of San Nicolás. This church was paid for by a doctor called Diego Mateo Zapata, who published a medical book which aroused great envy amongst his colleagues, so much so that they denounced him to the Spanish Inquisition. Hurriedly, and to prove he was a good Catholic, he paid out the enormous sum of three thousand, three hundred doubloons to build this beautiful church!

9:00 The church of San Nicolás de Barí is open for visitors to see the tronos, standards and robes which will parade in the evening. Similarly in the churches of Santa Catalina de Alejandría, San Antolín Mártir and San Pedro Apóstol. Other churches open at 10.00 (San Bartolomé) and 17.30 (San Francisco de Asís).

 

19.00: Procesión de la Venerable Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo del Amparo y María Santísima de los Dolores, leaving from the Iglesia parroquial de San Nicolás de Bari. (Paso Azul – the penitents are dressed in blue tunics)

Click for map, Plaza San Nicolás

 

Route: Calle San Nicolás, Plaza San Pedro, Calle Jara Carrillo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Calle Tomás Maestre, Glorieta de España (by now it’s around 20.15), Plaza Cardenal Belluga, Cardenal Belluga Nicolás Salzillo Hernández Amores Trapería Santo Domingo (paso emergencia) Santa Clara Echegaray, Julián Romea, Fernández Ardavín, Santa Gertrudis Calderón de la Barca José Esteve Mora, Plaza San Bartolomé, Plaza Santa Catalina, Plaza de las Flores, Plaza San Pedro, Calle Riquelme, Calle San Benito, Plaza Mayor, Plaza San Nicolás (returning at around 23.15).

8 pasos

1. Ángel de la Pasión (1996) Sculptor: Rafael Roses Rivadavia.

2. Sagrada Flagelación (1994-96) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro.

3. Jesús ante Pilatos (1991-94) Sculptor: Antonio Labaña Serrano.

4. Jesús del Gran Poder (1693) Sculptor: Nicolás de Bussy (attributed).

5. Encuentro Camino del Calvario (1996) Sculptor: Gregorio Fernández-Henarejos Martínez.

6. San Juan (2001) Sculptor: Gregorio Fernández-Henarejos Martínez.

7. Virgen de los Dolores (1741) Sculptor: Attr Francisco Salzillo.

8. Santísimo Cristo del Amparo (1739) Sculptor: Attr Francisco Salzillo

 

Saturday April 1, Sábado de Pasión (Saturday of the Passion)

From around 9am, in the Plaza de San Pedro, members of the Cofradia of the most Holy Christ of Hope carry out their bidding ceremony, while all around the city stalls are set up to sell palm branches and palm decorations, made using the bleached branches of palms which have been wrapped to ensure they stay white as they grow. This is a true art form and the pieces are a real joy to behold: one of the best places to see them is in Plaza de las Flores, where the procession leaves in the evening. All day, people come and go  with flowers and palm decorations, sitting in the square enjoying tapas and coffee, and the whole place is bustling and lively.

 

Churches open in the morning for the general public to view the build-up and see the 8 tronos inside, so it's possible to arrive in the city late morning, enjoy a bite to eat, watch the exit from the church of San Francisco de Asís and move into Plaza de las Flores for the first evening procession of the Coloraos.

 

At 6.00 pm the brotherhood of the Most Holy Church of Faith leave their headquarters of the Iglesia de San Francisco de Asísi. Thier statue is too high to exit via the door, so a spot of complicated manoeuvring has to be done in which the Virgin exits the church first, pulled out on a trolley, and is then crowned outside. Then Jesus on the cross is pulled out and lifted up from the window above the church entrance with ropes and held until the float below can be set-up.

 

All the while drummers set the mood and the crowd encourage the participants to complete the complicated manoeuvre perfectly.

 

12.00: Images of the Virgen de los Dolores and others are transferred from the Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel to the Iglesia of San Juan de Díos ready for their procession.

 

18.00: The Procesión de la Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo de la Fe begins at the Iglesia de San Francisco de Asís, returning at around 22.30.

 

20.30: The figure of Nuestro Padre Jesús de las Mercedes meets with the figures of the Virgen del Primer Dolor and San Juan in Plaza Belluga in what’s known as an “encuentro”, a greeting of 2 or more pasos.

Route: Nuestra Señora de los Buenos Libros, Plaza Circular, Gran Vía de Alfonso X el Sabio, Plaza Santo Domingo, Trapería, Hernández Amores, Escultor Salzillo, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (at around 19.45), Frenería, Puxmarina, Sociedad, San Bartolomé, Esteve Mora, Calderón de la Barca, Santa Gertrudis, Fernández Ardavín, Plaza Romea, Echegaray, Santa Clara, Enrique Villar, Santa Ana, Plaza de Santa Ana, Alfonso X el Sabio, Plaza Circular, Nuestra Señora de los Buenos Libros.

2 pasos:

Santa María de los Ángeles by Antonio Jesús Yuste Navarro (2014)

Santísimo Cristo de la Fe by Antonio Fernández Dorrego (1959)

 

20.00: The Procesión de la Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo de la Caridad begins at the Iglesia de Santa Catalina de Murcia, ending between 23.15 and 00.45. 

Route : Plaza de Santa Catalina, Plaza de las Flores, Cristo de la Esperanza, Plaza de San Pedro, Jara Carrillo, Martínez Tornel, Tomas Maestre, Glorieta, Arenal, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 21.00), Escultor Salzillo, Plaza Hernández Amores, Trapería, Pl Santo Domingo, José Echegaray, Plaza Romea, Fernández Ardavín, Santa Gertrudis, Calderón de la Barca, Esteve Mora, San Bartolomé, Sociedad, Puxmarina, Frenería, Conde Valle de San Juan, Jara Carrillo, Plaza de San Pedro, Plaza de las Flores, Plaza de Santa Catalina.

 

9 pasos

1. La Oración en el Huerto (1996) Sculptor: Arturo Serra Gómez.

2. La Flagelación (1998) Sculptor José Hernández Navarro, 2007

3. La Coronación de Espinas (1997) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro, 2009-2013

4. Nuestro Padre Jesús Camino del Calvario (1999) Sculptor: Manuel Ardil Pagán.

5. Santa Mujer Verónica (2003) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro.

6. El Expolio de Cristo (2022), Ramón Cuenca Santo

7. San Juan (2001) Sculptor: Ramón Cuenca Santo, 2013

8. María Dolorosa (1742) Sculptor: Francisco Salzillo.

9. Santísimo Cristo de la Caridad (1994) Sculptor: Rafael Roses Ribadavia

Between 12 midday and 2pm the pasos ready to parade in the evening can be seen in the Parroquia de San Francisco de Asís, near the Plaza de las Flores.

 

Sunday April 2, Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)

 

In the morning thousands gather in the Plaza Belluga and at various churches for their palms and palm ornaments to be blessed, in the Plaza de la Cruz at the back of the Cathedral. It’s a tradition in Murcia that children should wear new clothes, and even those with the scantest of resources would try to ensure that their children were well-dressed for this traditional blessing.

In the evening it is the turn of the Paso Verde (the greens) to parade.

 

11.00: Transfer of the figure of Nuestro Padre Jesús del Gran Poder from the iglesia de San Nicolás de Bari to the Convento de las Madres Capuchinas next to the Malecón gardens.

 

12.30: The tableaux of the Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo de la Esperanza are on display to the public until 14.00 in the church of San Pedro.

 

18.00: The Procesión de la Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo de la Esperanza y María Santísima de los Dolores y del Santo Cielo por la Salvación de las Almas. Route: Iglesia of San Pedro Apóstol, Plaza San Pedro, Jara Carrillo, Martínez Tornel, Tomás Maestre, Sol, Frenería, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 19.00), Escultor Nicolás Salzillo, Trapería, Santo Domingo (paso emergencia), Santa Clara Echegaray Julián Romea, Fernández Ardavín, Santa Gertrudis, Calderón de la Barca, José Esteve Mora, San Bartolomé, Sociedad, Puxmarina, Madre de Dios, Gran Vía Escultor Salzillo (paso emergencia), Madre de Dios, Pascual, Jara Carrillo, Plaza San Pedro (22.00)

 

8 pasos:

1. Dejad que los Niños se Acerquen a mí (Francisco Liza Alarcón, 2009)

2. Arrepentimiento y Perdón de María Magdalena (Francisco Liza Alarcón 1983 and Antonio Castaño Liza, 1983-2014)

3. Entrada de Jesús en Jerusalén (José Hernández Navarro 1984-87)

4. San Pedro (Francisco Salzillo, 1780)

5. Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (Santiago Baglietto y Gierra, 1817)

6. San Juan Evangelista (Antonio Castaño Liza, 2017)

7. María Santísima de los Dolores (Francisco Salzillo, 1756)

8. Santísimo Cristo de la Esperanza (Francisco Salzillo, 1755)

 

Monday April 3, Lunes Santo (Holy Monday)

 

The day focuses on the Iglesia de San Antolin (click for map), in the district of the same name. This area was the home of the master weavers and was the centre of the lucrative silk trade which was so vital to Murcia.

 

2,000 people wearing the magenta robes of the Cofradia parade in a procession which is renowned for its floral displays and beauty. A little historical point is that this procession used to be known as the procession of the trains, as to celebrate their silk-making history each penitent wore a train of silk which dragged 2 metres behind them. However, as numbers increased it became impractical and the train was shortened.

 

12.00: The historic carved figure of the Cristo del Perdón is taken down from his niche and members of the public have a chance to kiss the feet of the sacred image in the church os San Antolín.

 

19.00: Procesión de la Real, Ilustre y Muy Noble Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo del Perdón.

Route: Iglesia de San Antolín, Vidrieros, Sagasta, Plano de San Francisco, Plaza de San Julián, San Pedro, Plaza de San Pedro, Jara Carrillo, Martínez Tornel, Tomás Maestre, Sol, Frenería, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 20.15), Escultor Nicolás Salzillo, Plaza Hernández Amores, Trapería, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Santa Clara, Echegaray, Plaza de Julián Romea, Fernández Ardavín, Plaza de Santa Gertrudis, Calderón de la Barca, José Esteve Mora, Plaza de San Bartolomé, Santa Catalina, Plaza de Santa Catalina, Plaza de las Flores, Cristo de la Esperanza, Plaza de San Pedro, San Pedro, Plaza de San Julián, Pilar, Vidrieros, Plaza de San Antolín. Finishes around 1.00.

 

11 pasos

1. Ámgeles de la Pasión (2012), José Hernández Navarro

2. Jesús en Getsemaní (1996) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro

3. El Prendimiento (1947-48) Sculptor: José Sánchez Lozano

4. Jesús ante Caifás, Sculptors: S. Castillejos (1944) y Damián Pastor (1897).

5. La Flagelación (1945) Sculptor: José Sánchez Lozano.

6. Coronación de Espinas (1982) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro

7. Encuentro en la Vía Dolorosa. Cristo: José Sánchez Lozano (1948), Virgen: Clemente Cantos y Miguel Martínez Fernández (1924), San Juan: Anonymous.

8. La Verónica (1954) Sculptor: Francisco Toledo Sánchez.

9. El Ascendimiento (1988) Sculptor: José Hernández Navarro

10. El Santísimo Cristo del Perdón. Sculptors: Cristo Anonymous (17th century), Dolorosa: Roque López (1793), San Juan: Salzillo (1737), Magdalena: Sánchez Tapia (1897).

11. Nuestra Señora de la Soledad. Sculptor: José Sánchez Lozano (1943).

 

Tuesday April 4, Martes Santo (Holy Tuesday)

 

This is a totally different day to those preceding it. All day the bidding ceremony takes place throughout the streets, calling the faithful to parade. The two processions on this Tuesday are in what’s called the "Andalusian style", with the penitents wearing cloaks over their tunics and not giving out sweets or gifts to the crowd as in other processions. The tronos also have little wooden legs so that the bearers can rest from time to time.

 

10.00 to 14.00: The “tronos” or tableaux of the Hermandad de Esclavos del Rescate can be viewed in the Iglesia San Juan Bautista in Plaza San Juan (click for map).

 

19.00: Procesión de la Hermandad de la Esclavitud de Nuestro Padre Jesús del Rescate y María Santísima de la Esperanza. Tunic colours green and white, white and purple.

Route: Iglesia de san Juan Bautista, Plaza San Juan, Tahona, Arco de San Juan, Plaza Ceballos, Pintor Villacis, Plaza Cardenal Belluga (around 19.45), Escultor Salzillo, Pl. Hernández Amores, Trapería, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Merced, Alejandro Seiguer, Plaza Cetina, Isidoro de la Cierva, Pintor Villacis, Ceballos, Arco de San Juan, Tahona, Plaza San Juan and back to the Iglesia San Juan Bautista.

 

Processional order

1. Cruz Guía (Vicente Segura Valls, 1955)

2. María Santísima de la Esperanza (José Sánchez Lozano, 1948)

3. Nuestro Padre Jesús del Rescate (Anonymous, 17th century)

 

19.45: Procesión de la Pontificia, Real, Hospitalaria y Primitiva Asociación del Santísimo Cristo de la Salud (white tunics)

Route: Iglesia de San Juan de Dios, Plaza Cristo de la Salud, Eulogio Soriano, Pintor Villacis, Apóstoles, Plaza Apóstoles (20.50), Plaza Cardenal Belluga, Nicolás Salzillo, Hernández Amores, Trapería (paso emergencia), Santo Domingo, Merced, Alejandro Séiquer, Cetina (paso emergencia), Isidoro de la Cierva, Pintor Villacis, Eulogio Soriano, Plaza Cristo de la Salud and back to the Iglesia de San Juan de Dios.

 

Processional order

1. Nuestro Padre Jesús de las Mercedes (Nicolás Salzillo, 1713-25)

2. María, Consuelo de los Afligidos (2018), Francisco Javier López de Espino

3. San Juan Evangelista (Roque López, 1791).

4. Santísima Virgen del Primer Dolor (Francisco Salzillo, 1740).

5. Santísimo Cristo de la Salud (15th or 16th century, anonymous).

 

Wednesday April 5, Miércoles Santo (Easter Wednesday)

Wednesday is one of the best-loved days of Semana Santa in Murcia, the day the city is tinged red with the blood of Jesus Christ as the brotherhood of Los Coloraos (the reds) parade through the city.

 

The headquarters of this Cofradia is on the south side of the river, in the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen, and in the past this was a more rural part of Murcia: for this reason the procession is loved by the Murcianos who live on the fringes of the city and the suburbs, which in past centuries were devoted to the agriculture which supplied food for the city-dwelling population. As a symbol of this allegiance, broad beans are distributed along with the normal sweets and gifts during the procession, in which 3,000 penitents and over 1,000 children take part, all wearing the distinctive red robes of this Cofradía.

 

This procession is distinctive for the participants’ bulging robes stuffed with sweets, bread rolls and eggs and its happy atmosphere, although the mood becomes more reverent as it approaches the Cathedral. A favoured viewing point is on or alongside the Puente Viejo as the procession crosses the river Segura.

 

18.00: Procesión de la Real, Muy Ilustre, Venerable, y Antiquísima Archicofradía de la Preciosísima Sangre de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo. The parade leaves the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora del Carmen and takes about 6 hours to complete its route.

Route: Nuestra Señora del Carmen, Colón, Plaza Camachos, Canalejos, Puente Viejo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Calle Tomás Maestre, Sol, Frenería, Glorieta de España, Plaza Cardenal Belluga (at around 19.00), Escultor Nicolás Salzillo, Trapería, Plaza Santo Domingo, Santa Ana, Alfonso X El Sabio, Basabé, Echegaray, Plaza Romea ,Fernández Ardavín, Calderón de la Barca, Plaza José Esteve Mora, Plaza San Bartolomé, Sociedad, Puxmarina, Madre de Dios, Gran Vía Escultor Salzillo, Madre de Dios, Pascual, Jara Carrillo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Puente Viejo, Plaza Camachos, Colón, Nuestra Señora del Carmen. The first tableau returns to the church at around 22.30.

 

11 pasos

1. San Vicente Ferrer (Ramón Cuenca Soto, 2011)
2. La Samaritana (Roque López, 1799)
3. Jesús en casa de Lázaro (José Hernández Navarro, 1985)
4. El Lavatorio (Juan González Moreno, 1952)
5. La Negación de San Pedro (Christ - Gregorio Molera, 1948 / San Pedro - Nicolás de Bussi, 1699)
6. El Pretorio (Christ - Nicolás de Bussi, 1699 / Plate and Berrugo - José Sánchez Lozano, 1945 / Soldiers - José Molera, 1948)
7. Las Hijas de Jerusalén (Juan González Moreno, 1956)
8. El Cristo de las Penas (José Hernández Navarro, 1986)
9. Santísimo Cristo de la Sangre (Nicolás de Bussi, 1693)
10. San Juan (Juan Dorado Brisa, 1905)
11. La Dolorosa (Roque López, 1787)

 

Thursday April 6, Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday)

 

The procession of silence

 

On this night, the street lights are extinguished and the parade moves in silence through the darkness. Participants take a vow of silence from the moment they don their robes until they take them off.

 

During much of the day the Cofradias are preparing for the procession of Good Friday. One little tradition takes place on the evening of the Thursday in the Plaza San Agustin. Part of the float of the prayer in the garden and the chalice of bitterness is a large date palm tree, made from the best branches which can be gathered from around Murcia. During the evening these are bound together to create the tree, and it is believed that any woman who eats a date from this tree will become pregnant during the following year, so when the procession is over on the Friday, women wishing to conceive beg for the dates. Whilst the workers build the tree "Campanas de Auroros", men from the outlying country villages, sing traditional Murcia hymns, accompanied only by a little handbell which they ring from time to time. During this time the Iglesia de Jesús in the Salzillo museum is open so that the pasos can be seen, dressed and ready to parade on Friday morning.

 

As night falls, the two processions leave the churches of San Lorenzo and del Carmen.

 

 

11.15: Adoration of the reliquary of the lignum crucis (the fragment of the True Cross on which Christ died) in the convent church of Santa Clara (very close to Plaza Santo Domingo).

 

12.00: Worship of the Cristo de la Misericordia in the Iglesia de San Miguel Arcángel. After this the Saint is taken to the Iglesia de San Antolín.

 

12.30: The figure of Christ is taken from Santa Clara and there is an “encuentro” with the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad in Plaza Santo Domingo.

 

18.30: The Procesión de Penitencia de Nuestra Señora de la Soledad del Calvario. Tunic color: black.

 

Route: Nuestra Señora del Carmen, Alameda de Colón, Camachos, Avenida de Canalejas, Puente Viejo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Jara Carrillo, San Pedro, Plaza de las Flores, Plaza de Santa Catalina, Santa Catalina, Plaza San Bartolomé, Sociedad, Puxmarina, Frenería, Plaza Cardenal Belluga, San Patricio, Tomás Maestre, Plaza de Martinez Tornel, Puente Viejo, Avenida Canalejas, Alameda de Colón, Hermanos Cerón, Iglesia del Carmen.

 

The most intense moment of this procession is when the it arrives at the Iglesia-Museo de San Juan de Dios, where the Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo Yacente have prepared a funeral mound with the image of Jesus. Manoeuvring the paso of the Virgen de la Soledad is difficult, but she enters the church, and is positioned in front of the image of Jesus. Following a reading the "stabat mater" is sung by a choir. Hundreds of people squeeze inside the church to watch. Lights are dimmed and the church is lit only by candles before the procession continues on its route.

 

Pasos

1. Jesús de la Redención, Antonio Jesús Yuste Navarro (2017)

2. Cristo del Amor en la Conversión del Buen Ladrón (Gregorio Fernández-Henarejos Martínez, 2011)

3. Nuestra Señora de la Soledad del Calvario (Antonio Campillo Párraga, 1985)

 

22.00: The Procession in Silence of the Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo del Refugio Procesión del Silencio. Tunic colours: black and purple.

Route: Alejandro Séiquer, Merced, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Santa Ana, Alfonso X El Sabio, Santo Domingo, Trapería, Plaza Hernández Amores, Escultor Salzillo, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 23.15), Escultor Nicolás Salzillo, Trapería, Barrionuevo, Cetina, Alejandro Séiquer, Iglesia de San Lorenzo.

 

Paso: Santísimo Cristo del Refugio (Anonymous, 16th century)

 

Friday April 7, Viernes Santo (Good Friday)

 

Good Friday is a day of mourning and sadness, but is also the day on which the best known sculptures leave the churches of the city of Murcia. Many refer to this day as Salzillo day, as Francisco Salzillo’s most important works are paraded through the streets, but it can be exhausting as the morning procession is followed by three more in the evening!

 

The morning parade starts early, at 8.00 in the Plaza of San Agustin, where it leaves the Iglesia de Jesús, and in total it takes 8 hours to travel around the city with over 4,000 participants clad in deep purple robes. It’s one of the best known processions of the whole week and probably the best attended.

 

As a rough guide, the parade reaches Santa Catalina around midday, and the latter part of the route as the pasos near the Iglesia de Jesús is probably the easiest point from which to watch it. 

 

In the evening are three more parades, austere and serious, reflecting the mood of mourning and contemplation.

 

8.00: The procession of the Real y Muy Ilustre Cofradía de Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno, leaving from the Iglesia de Jesús (purple tunics). Route: Plaza San Agustín, García Alix, Pedro Pou, Vidrieros, Plaza de San Antolín, Sagasta, Pilar, San Julián, San Pedro, Plaza de San Pedro, Jara Carrillo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Tomás Maestre, Glorieta, Arenal, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 9.45), Escultor Salzillo, Plaza Hernández Amores, Trapería, Plaza de Santo Domingo, Echegaray, Plaza Romea, Fernández Ardavín, Calderón de la Barca, José Esteve Mora, San Bartolomé, Santa Catalina, Plaza de las Flores, Jiménez Baeza, San Nicolás, Santa Teresa, Mariano Girada, Acisclo Díaz, Plaza Agustinas, Santa Cecilia, San Agustín.

 

9 pasos (the work of Francisco Salzillo unless specified)

1. La Santa Cena (1761)

2. La Oración en el Huerto (1754)

3. El Prendimiento (1763)

4. Los Azotes (1777)

5. La Verónica (1756)

6. La Caída (1752)

7. Ntro. Padre Jesús Nazareno (Anonymous, 1600)

8. San Juan (1756)

9. La Dolorosa (1755)

 

Good Friday evening

17.30: Worship of the image of Cristo del Refugio in the Iglesia de San Lorenzo Mártir.

 

19.00: Procession of the Servitas de María Santísima de las Angustias from the Iglesia de San Bartolomé- Santa María. Black and blue tunics. 

Route: Plaza de San Bartolomé, José Esteve Mora, Calderón de la Barca, Santa Gertrudis, Fernández Ardavín, Plaza Romea, Echegaray, Santa Clara, Plaza Santo Domingo, Trapería, Plaza Hernández Amores, Escultor Salzillo, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 20.30), Arsenal, Glorieta de España, Frenería, Puxmarina, Sociedad, San Bartolomé.

 

Pasos

1. Ángel Servita (Vicente Hernández Couquet, 1858)

2. María Santísima de las Angustias (Francisco Salzillo, 1739)

 

18.45: Procession of the Cofradía del Santo Sepulcro from the Iglesia de San Bartolomé. Black tunics. Route: Plaza de San Bartolomé, José Esteve Mora, Calderón de la Barca, Santa Gertrudis, Fernández Ardavín, Plaza de Romea, Echegaray, Santa Clara, Plaza Santo Domingo, Trapería, Hernández Amores, Escultor Salzillo, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (around 21.00), Frenería, Conde Valle San Juan, Jara Carrillo, Plaza San Pedro, Plaza de las Flores, Pl Santa Catalina, Santa Catalina, Plaza de San Bartolomé (22.00)

 

Processional order

1. Santísimo Cristo de Santa Clara la Real (Francisco Salzillo, 1770)

2. Santísima Virgen de la Amargura (González Moreno, 1946)

3. Santo Sepulcro (González Moreno, 1941)

4. San Juan Evangelista (González Moreno, 1952)

5. Santísima Virgen de la Soledad (Anonymous, 17th century)

 

18.30: Procession of the Santísimo Cristo de la Misericordia from the church of San Esteban. 

Route: Acisclo Díaz, Gran Vía Escultor Salzillo, Maestro Alonso, Santa Clara, Santo Domingo, Trapería, Hernández Amores, Nicolás Salzillo, Cardenal Belluga (20.00), Arenal, Glorieta de España, Sol, Frenería, Puxmarina, Sociedad, San Bartolomé, José Esteve Mora, Calderón de la Barca, Santa Gertrudis, Fernández Ardavín, Gran Vía Escultor Salzillo, Barítono Marcos Redondo, Santa Teresa, Lorenzo Pausa, Acisclo Díaz, Iglesia de San Esteban (21.45).

 

Pasos:

1. Jesús Nazareno (Roque López, 1797)
2. Santísimo Cristo de la Misericordia (Domingo Beltrán, 1581)
3. Descendimiento (José Hernández Navarro, 2001)
4. Nuestra Señora Madre de Misericordia (José Sánchez Lozano, 1927)

 

Saturday April 8, Sábado Santo (Easter Saturday)

 

Two processions begin in the early evening.

 

17.00: Procession of the Santísimo Cristo de la Caridad. Black tunics. 

Route: Iglesia de Santa Catalina, Santa Isabel, Platería, José Esteve Mora, Jabonerías, Julián Romea, Arco de Santo Domingo, Santo Domingo, Enrique Villar, Santa Ana, Alfonso X El Sabio, Santa Ana, Santo Domingo, Trapería, Hernández Amores, Salzillo, Cardenal Belluga (approx 18.40), Frenería, Puxmarina, Sociedad, San Bartolomé, José Esteve Mora, Platería, Santa Isabel, Santa Catalina.

 

Paso: Nuestra Señora del Rosario en sus Misterios Dolorosos (Ramón Cuenca Santo, 2013)

 

19.00: Procesión de la Cofradía del Santísimo Cristo Yacente y Nuestra Señora de la Luz en su Soledad. The participants wear white, the Hebrew colour of mourning, and walk barefoot and in silence. Following the procession, the Easter Vigil begins in the Cathedral.

 

Route: Plaza de San Juan de Dios, Cristo de la salud, Eulogio Soriano, Apóstoles, Plaza del Cardenal Belluga (19.20), Frenería, Plaza Puxmarina, Sociedad, Plaza de San Bartolomé, Plaza José Esteve Mora, Jabonerías, Plaza de Julián Romea, Arco de Santo Domingo, Plaza Santo Domingo, Trapería, Plaza Hernández Amores, Óliver, Apóstoles, Eulogio Soriano, Cristo de la Salud, Plaza de San Juan de Dios.

 

Pasos

1. Santísimo Cristo Yacente (Diego de Ayala, 1574)

2. Nuestra Señora de la Luz en su Soledad (Anonymous, 17th century)

 

Sunday April 9, Domingo de Resurrección, Easter Sunday

 

Jesus has risen from the dead and the mood changes to one of celebration. All the participants in the morning procession wear white, with different coloured cloaks to denote their Cofradías, and gone are the “capirotes” (hoods) of the penitents, soft turban-like head-dresses taking their place while each participant carries a silver wand.

 

At the head of the procession comes the devil in chains, being led by angels, with jingling bells, symbolising the triumph of light over darkness. Following this are bands, flowers, light and thousands of people, celebrating the resurrection, and the whole procession takes about 6 hours to wend its way through the streets!

 

8.15: Procesión de Nuestro Señor Jesucristo Resucitado, starting at the Iglesia de Santa Eulalia.

Route: Plaza Santa Eulalia, Calle San Antonio, Isidoro de la Cierva, Plaza Cetina, Plaza Hernández Amores, Trapería, Plaza Santo Domingo, Sabta Clara, Echegaray, Plaza Julián Romea, Plaza Santa Gertrudis, Plaza José Esteve Mora, Plaza San Bartolomé, Santa Catalina, Plaza de las Flores, Plaza San Pedro, Calle Jara Carrillo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Calle Tomás Maestre, Glorieta de España, Calle Arenal, Plaza Cardenal Belluga, Calle Apóstoles, Calle Pintor Villacis, Plaza Ceballos, Calle Simón García, Calle Joaquín Costa, Plaza Santa Eulalia.

 

11 pasos

1. San Miguel Arcángel (Francisco Liza Alarcón, 1994)

2. Cruz Triunfante (Clemente Cantos Sánchez, 1917)

3. Nuestro Señor Jesucristo Resucitado (José Planes, 1949, and García Mengual, 1972)

4. Las Tres Marías y el Ángel del Señor (Antonio Labaña Serrano, 1993)

5. Aparición de Jesús a Mª Magdalena (Antonio Labaña Serrano, 1982)

6. Los Discípulos de Emaús (Antonio Labaña Serrano, 1983)

7. Aparición de Jesús a Tomás (Apostles by Francisco Sánchez Araciel, 1912 / Christ by José Hernández Navarro, 1994)

8. Aparición de Jesús en el Lago Tiberiades (Antonio Labaña Serrano, 1987-89)

9. La Ascensión del Señor (José Hernández Navarro, 2000)

10. San Juan Evangelista (Venancio Marco, 1912)

11. La Virgen Gloriosa (José Mª Sánchez Lozano, 1950)

 

And with that it’s all over for another year! Except...

In the city of Murcia the end of the last Semana Santa procession marks the beginning of another week of fiestas! No sooner are the Cofradías able to rest their weary feet than they are able to enjoy the traditional cooking and festive atmosphere of the “barracas”, as the regional capital celebrates the arrival of spring with seven days more holiday in the Fiestas de Primavera, including the Bando de la Huerta and the Entierro de la Sardina!

Lorca celebrates Easter week in inimitably spectacular style

Semana Santa in Lorca is an extraordinarily flamboyant event, the most important element of which is the famed biblical processions, a unique manifestation of faith which features the exquisite embroideries for which the city is so famous.

 

These are displayed throughout the year in the embroidery museums of the Cofradías (brotherhoods or guilds), and although the most spectacular pieces are the vast cloaks worn in the main biblical processions, the attention to detail in Lorca is mindboggling. Every robe, standard, cloak and capirote (the tall pointed hats worn by the penitents) is lavishly smothered in detailed embroidery and gold thread.

 

Although the biblical processions are the most famous element of Semana Santa in Lorca there are other unique events during this week, with a number of Via Crucis walks up to the Calvary high above the city, purple robed penitents dragging their wooden crosses up the steep steps, and numerous intimate “encuentros” and theatrical moments, where pasos meet in shaded squares and statues glide silently through darkened streets.

 

Tickets for seats in the stands which are set up along the routes of the biblical processions are available directly from the Cofradías, the Whites and the Blues (see below).

Main points of departure for orientation:

 

Paso Blanco (ticket sales). Calle Santo Domingo, 8. Opening hours Monday to Wednesday 11am to 2pm and 4.30pm to 7pm, Thursday and Friday 11.30am to 2.30pm. Click for map, Calle Santo Domingo, Lorca.

 

Paso Morado (no ticket sales). Iglesia del Carmen, Calle Nogalte. Monday to Wednesday 10.30am to 1.30pm and Thursday and Friday 11am to 2pm, Click for map, Calle Nogalte, Lorca.

 

Paso Encarnado (no ticket sales). Parroquia de San Cristóbal, Rincón Macho. Open Thursday and Friday 11am to 2pm Click for map, Rincón Macho Lorca.

 

Paso Azul (ticket sales), Iglesia de San Francisco, calle Nogalte 7. Opening times Monday to Wednesday 11am to 2pm and 5pm to 8pm, Thursday and Friday 10am to 3pm. Click for map, Iglesia de San Francisco Calle Nogalte, Lorca.

 

Click here for details of the Lorca Tourist Office.

 

Full information about the embroideries of Lorca can be found here.

 

Information about what to visit, the monuments and history of Lorca as well as plenty of practical information about the city can be found on the Lorca Today website and further guided tours this week in the feed below. 

 

PROGRAM FOR SEMANA SANTA LORCA 2022 (NB Images do not necessarily relate to the specific day.)

NOTE: ALL TIMINGS ARE PROVISIONAL PENDING CONFIRMATION AND PROCESSIONS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CANCELLATION IN THE EVENT OF ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS

 

Friday April 8, Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows)

 

Midnight on Thursday night: on the stroke of midnight at the door of the Church of San Francisco, the headquarters of the Paso Azul, the Serenata to the Virgen de los Dolores is performed, a song to begin Semana Santa and welcome in her holiest day. Thousands of members of the Paso Azul gather to join in, making this the “bluest night of the year” in Lorca!

 

7.30: Vía Crucis of the Paso Encarnado, the Santísimo Cristo de la Sangre. The walk to the hill known as the Calvary in Lorca begins at the Iglesia de San Cristóbal and ends at the Parroquía de San Diego, where the Cristo de la Sangre remains until the following Tuesday.

 

12.00 midday: Mass in honour of the Virgen de los Dolores at the Iglesia de San Francisco. This service for the Paso Azul features the traditional hymns to the Virgen and “Mater Dolorosa” by Ginés Abellán.

 

16.30: Vía Crucis Penitencial to mark the end of Lent (Paso Morado). Leaving the Colegio de San Francisco, which is the site of the first Station of the Cross, the Paso Morado climb up to the Calvary with the image of the Virgen of los Dolores created by sculptor Marcos Laborda, from Caravaca de la Cruz, in the late 18th century. Hooded penitents in in purple robes carry large wooden crosses, and at the top of the climb is one of the most unexpected sights in Lorca, with fabulous views out cross the city.

 

19.30: Procesión de la Virgen de los Dolores (Paso Azul). Departure from the Iglesia de San Francisco via Cuesta de San Francisco, Príncipe Alfonso, Lope Gisbert and Floridablanca, entering the main street of Avenida de Juan Carlos I at approximately 20.00.

This is the first of the main processions of the week and includes some of the elements of the biblical parade and a number of horsemen, as well as all of the “pasos” of the blues. Also included are the six embroideries belonging to the Paso Azul which have been declared Items of Cultural Interest.

The Paso Blanco contribute the “Triumphant entry of Constantino into Rome” and the Roman soldiers, while the female members of the Paso Azul wear traditional “mantilla” shawls and accompany the Virgen de los Dolores.

Tickets for seats cost 5 euros and can be purchased directly from the two main Cofradías, Blancos or Azules.

Saturday April 9, Sábado de Pasión (Passion Saturday)

 

20.30: In the Iglesia de San Francisco the “Salve” hymn is performed in honour of the Virgen de los Dolores. The salve was written in 1903 by José Antonio Navarro, chapel master of Córdoba Cathedral, and this is the only day of the year on which this piece of music can be heard.

 

21.15: Mass in honour of the Virgen de la Soledad (the patron of the Paso Negro) in the former Collegiate Church of San Patricio.

 

21.45: Procesión de la Soledad, presided over by the Hermandad de la Curia (Paso Negro). Leaves from the Iglesia de Santiago and follows a route through the old town of Lorca: Calle Santiago, Villaescusa, Marsilla, Plaza del Ibreño, Porche de San Antonio, Zapatería, Rojo, Cava, Plaza de España. The procession lasts for approximately one hour.

 

Sunday April 10, Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)

 

10.15: Mass in commemoration of the Triumphant Entry of Jesus into Jerusalem, in the Capilla del Rosario (Paso Blanco). 15 minutes prior to this the palms which will be carried in the evening procession are blessed.

 

11.30: Blessing of the olive branches and palms which will be carried in the evening procession, in the square known as Placica Nueva, alongside Calle Nogalte.

 

12.00: Blessing of the Palms in the church of San Cristóbal (Paso Negro).

 

12.00: The three standards of the Paso Blanco enter the Capilla del Rosario and are then taken to their collection points for the evening.

 

19.30: Procesión de las Palmas (Paso Negro). The participants gather in the Plaza de España and follow a route along Álamo, Lope Gisbert, Príncipe Alfonso and Óvalo de Santa Paula before entering the main thoroughway of the Avenida Juan Carlos I at around 20.00. It then continues on Floridablanca, Lope Gisbert and Álamo, before ending back in the Plaza de España.

Seats cost 5 euros and can be purchased from the Paso Azul and the Paso Blanco.

This parade is the first to include some elements of the spectacular biblical procession of Good Friday evening, notably the Triumphant Entry of Jesus into Jerusalem of the Paso Blanco, which made its début in 1855. It’s probably the best evening to go if you don´t want to buy a full price seat for the main biblical processions, as there are enough elements to make it an exciting occasion and the horsemen are more reckless on this night than any other!

Following the main procession, thousands of participants dressed as shepherds and townsfolk from Jerusalem follow, waving their palms and olive branches to welcome Christ.

The Paso Azul parade with the Pharaonic group, a colourful and exotic troupe which includes the sacred sun boat of Ramses II carried by slaves.

Monday April 11, Lunes Santo (Holy Monday)

 

11.30: In the headquarters of their brotherhoods the Paso Blanco and Paso Azul put on exhibitions during the week, showing some of the most incredible pieces of embroideries which can be seen during Semana Santa. These special exhibitions are officially at the two museums (the Mubbla and the Museo Azul) open at 11.30 on the Monday and remain open until Friday.

For the rest of the week the exhibition at the Museo Azul opens from 11.00 to 20.00, closing for lunch between 14.00 and 17.00, while the MuBBla is open from 11.00 to 14.00 and 16.30 to 19.00. On Maundy Thursday and Good Friday shorter opening hours are in place to prepare for the processions: MuBBla 11.30 to 14.30, Museo Azul 10.00 to 15.00.

During the evening the Paso Encarnado opens its own exhibition in the Capilla del Rosario.

 

20.30: Representation of the living Vía Crucis. This follows the 14 Stations of the Cross, leaving from Calle Corredera, in front of the Iglesia de San Francisco, and ending in front of the small church on Monte Calvario. It's a well attended event, the streets packed as the events of the Passion are played out.

 

20.30: Prayer of the Rosary in honour of Nuestra Señora La Virgen de la Amargura in the Capilla del Rosario.

Tuesday April 12, Martes Santo (Easter Tuesday)

 

10.30: The embroidery museums open their Semana Santa exhibitions.

 

20.30: Prayer of the Rosary in honour of Nuestra Señora La Virgen de la Amargura in the Capilla del Rosario.

 

21.00: The figure of Cristo de la Sangre leaves the church of San Diego prior to the start of the evening procession.

 

21.15: Nuestro Señor Jésus de la Penitencia leaves the church of San Cristóbal.

 

21.30: It is the turn of the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad Coronada to depart from the church of San Cristóbal.

 

22.00: The three processions and tableaux meet in an emotional “Encuentro” in the Plaza de la Estrella, marking the official start of the Procesión del Santísimo Cristo de la Sangre.

Wednesday April 13, Miércoles Santo (Easter Wednesday)

 

10.30: The embroidery museums open their extraordinary Semana Santa exhibitions.

 

20.30: Prayer of the Rosary in honour of Nuestra Señora La Virgen de la Amargura in the Capilla del Rosario.

 

23.00: The figure of Christ crucified is carried by the Hermanos del Socorro from the church of La Misericordia on the hill of Calvary above the city centre to the Iglesia Parroquial del Carmen in the Penitential Descent of Cristo de la Misericordia.

As the figure exits the church saetas are sung by the moonlight and the procession is lit by torches. On arrival at the Iglesia del Carmen, saetas are once more sung. (Paso Morado).

 

Midnight: The Paso Morado exhibit the figure of Nuestro Señor Jesús Nazareno at the door of the Iglesia del Carmen, where more Saetas are performed by singers from Lorca and all over Spain (Paso Morado).

 

Midnight: A serenade is sung to the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad Coronadaat the door of the Iglesia de San Cristóbal, with the participation of the Agrupación Musical del Santísimo Cristo de la Sangre (Paso Encarnado).

Thursday April 14, Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday)

 

10.30: The embroidery museums open their extraordinary Semana Santa exhibitions.

 

19.30: The Procesión del Perdón, presided over by the Paso Morado.

This first major biblical processions concerns the might of Rome and the persecution of early Christians in the Empire, the domination of the Egyptians, the paso of the Last Supper and the suffering of Jesus before his crucifixion. It's not the biggest procession of all - Friday is more spectacular and contains ALL of the biblical elements, whereas this procession only contains some of them. However, some tickets are valid for both nights, so friends could share the cost!

Leaving from the Iglesia del Carmen at 19.30, the procession follows Calle Nogalte, Lope Gisbert and Floridablanca and reaches the main area and the stands of Juan Carlos I at around 20.00. Leaving here, the procession goes along Avenida de Portugal and Nogalte, concluding back at the Iglesia del Carmen.

 

23.30: Procession of Silence, presided over by the Paso Encarnado. Leaves from the Iglesia de San Cristóbal, and passes through the major streets of the district: calles Portijico, Escalante, Abellaneda, Mayor and Plaza de la Estrella and Plaza Hortalizas.

This is a strictly religious event which takes place in a silence which is broken only by the sounds of saetas (a type of song sung by a one voice) at various points along the way.

 

Midnight: Vía Crucis de Penitencia. A candlelit procession from the first Station of the Cross, which is at the doorway of the Colegio de San Francisco, lasting right through the night as numerous groups form to walk up to the hill of Calvary. The figure of the Cristo de la Misericordia accompanies the first group on his way back to his permanent home.

Friday April 15, Viernes Santo (Good Friday)

 

10.30: Procesión Penitencial del Vía Crucis. This austere Paso Morado procession leaves from the Colegio de San Francisco, the first station of the cross, and is one of the oldest processions of which records exist in Lorca. From here it heads up towards the Ermita de la Misericordia, located on the hill known by the locals as Monte Calvario.

Hundreds of penitents in purple tunics with crosses on their chests accompany the pasos of San Juan Evangelista, La Virgen de los Dolores, Nuestro Señor Jésus Nazareno del Socorro on their journey along the Vía Crucis, dragging their wooden crosses with them.

A "rezaor" recites traditional prayers, passed down verbally from one generation to thenext since the 18th century, describing each of the Stations of the Cross. This event has been taking place in Lorca since the 17th century.

 

17.00: Mass in the Iglesia de San Cristóbal and the Iglesia del Carmen.

 

19.30: The main biblical procession of Lorca, presided over by the Paso Blanco.

This spectacular event begins in the Capilla del Rosario and forms up along Calles Lope Gisbert, Príncipe Alfonso, and Santa Paula, entering Avenida Juan Carlos I via the Óvalo de Santa Paula at approximately 20.00. It is the most important parade of the week - hence the price of the tickets - and is a truly extraordinary sight.

It’s beyond description, and for visitors to the Region of Murcia over Easter the seats are well worth the money. Each of the cloaks in this procession, the robes, the standards and the shawls worn by the sculptures, is hand embroidered, and they are exquisite works of art in their own right. Alongside these are horse-drawn carriages, which race up the street at full pelt, cloaks flaring behind them, and hundreds of horsemen, each wearing a richly embroidered cloak.

In amongst all of this the crowd scream their support for the Blues and the Whites, and if you can afford the tickets this is a unique spectacle and expression of faith and fervour which should be seen at least once by everyone living in, or visiting, the Region of Murcia.

The procession is headed by the Paso Encarnado and the Paso Morado, followed by the Paso Azul and the Paso Blanco with the Paso Negro sandwiched in between. It is the single event with the most complete selection of the standards, shawls, cloaks and other embroidered items which are the first textiles in Spain to be awarded Item of Cultural Interest status.

Saturday April 16, Sábado de Gloria (Easter Saturday)

 

11.00: The floral decoration of the platforms on which the images of the Virgen de la Encarnación and Nuestro Señor Jesús Resucitado are carried begins at the Ex-Colegiata de San Patricio. At the same time, the façades of the buildings in the Plaza de España are decorated ready for the resurrection.

 

21.00: Easter Vigil begins in the churches of San Patricio, the Virgen del Carmen and San Cristóbal, as does the Procession of the Virgen de la Encarnación (starting at the church of San Patricio and heading for the Iglesia de Santa María la Mayor, where the Virgen spends the night).

In addition, the figure of straw representing Judas is burnt in the Plaza de España as a prelude to Easter Sunday, an event which has been traditional in Lorca since the 18th century.

Sunday April 17, Domingo de Resurrección (Easter Sunday)

 

11.30: Procesión del Resucitado. Leaves from the church of San Patricio and takes the following route: Álamo, General Eytier, Granero, Fernando el Santo, Alfonso X, Corredera, Álamo, arriving back at the recently reopened Excolegiata de San Patricio at approximately 13.00.

The splendour of the last Semana Santa procession in Lorca is epitomized by the figure of Nuestro Señor Jesús Resucitado, the honorary Mayor of Lorca, carried on the shrines of bearers clad in white tunics and showered with petals along the route. All of the main standards of the Cofradías accompany the statue, along with their bands, as the bells chime in the streets on this day of glory and celebration.

At the end of the procession, Holy Mass is celebrated in the Plaza de España.

 

20.30: Solemn Salve to the Virgen de la Amargura in the Capilla del Rosario, with a floral offering.

 

The Jumilla Easter celebrations date back at least 600 years and are among the oldest on record in Spain

With a history which dates back over six hundred years the Easter celebrations in Jumilla are among the oldest in Spain, documentary records revealing their existence as long ago as 18th, 19th and 20th April 1411. At that time the Saint of the Dominican Order, San Vicente Ferrer, was preaching in Jumilla during an evangelical campaign which had important social and religious repercussions in numerous towns, and the habit of holding the processions started in Jumilla on the basis of his sermons.

 

The first consequence was the founding of the Brotherhood of Nuestra Señora del Rosario, which organized and funded the penitential procession on the night of Maundy Thursday in the narrow, twisting streets of the small town which at that time still huddled within the shelter of the outer walls of the castle.

 

On 21st May 2019 Easter Week in Jumilla was declared a Fiesta of International Tourist Interest on account of its rich artistic heritage, its colour, the devotion and enthusiasm it inspires and the traditions which have evolved over six centuries of processions.

 

To put that into context, the only other Semana Santa celebrations in the Region of Murcia to be included in the same category are those in the cities of Lorca, with its extravagant biblical parades, daredevil horsemanship and intricately embroidered cloaks, Cartagena, with the military precision of its solemn processions, and the city of Murcia itself, featuring the sculptures of the baroque master, Francisco Salzillo.

Jumilla also boasts one of Salzillo’s works in the religious tableaux paraded through the streets during Semana Santa, namely the “Cristo Amarrado a la Columna”, while other outstanding features include the drumming which characterizes various Easter celebrations in north and north-west Murcia. All of these elements combined make Semana in Jumilla an experience not to be missed, and to savour the evening processions to the full an overnight stay in recommended: click here for a summary of various accommodation options in and around the town. 

 

Inevitably, the programme of events in such a deep-rooted celebration varies only very little from year to year, and in 2022 the schedule is expected to be as follows (pending confirmation, and always dependent on the weather!)

 

Friday March 31, Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows, the Friday before Good Friday)

21.30: In the evening a penitential “Vía Crucis” procession is held, representing the Stations of the Cross as Jesus made his way to Mount Calvary.

 

14 altars are created by the people of the town and statues are placed on their pedestals to be seen in a very different light from the processions during which they are paraded later during the week. These form the focal points of the events of Semana Santa, around which the “pasos” (or sculpted tableaux) pass during the next nine days.

 

This is a relatively new addition to Semana Santa in Jumilla, having been created in 1994.

 

Route: Church of Santiago (Puerta sur), Calle de Santiago, Plaza de Arriba, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Pasos, Canalejas and back to the church of El Salvador.

 

Pasos:

1. Beso de Judas (The Kiss of Judas)

2. Negación de San Pedro (The Denial of Peter)

3. Cristo Humillado (The Humiliation of Christ)

4. Jesús ante Herodes (Jesus appears before Herod)

5. Cristo de la Sentencia (Christ is sentenced)

6. Cristo de la Caída (Christ falls)

7. Cristo de la Misericordia (The Christ of Mercy)

8. La Verónica (Saint Veronica)

9. Virgen del Primer Dolor (Our Lady of the First Sorrow)

10. Santa María Magdalena (Mary Magdalene)

11. Cristo de la Expiración

12. Cristo de la Salud

13. Virgen de la Piedad (Our Lady of Piety)

14. Guarda del Cuerpo de Cristo (The Guard of the Body of Christ)

 

Saturday April 1, Sábado de Pasión (Passion Saturday, the Saturday before Easter Week)

 

After the conclusion of evening Mass in the church of San Juan, the drumming of the “Tamborada de la Burrica” starts, lasting until 4.00 the following morning.

 

At 21.00 various of the sculpted figures which will be taking part in later processions are transferred from their usual homes to other locations, forming secondary processions of their own.

 

On the one hand, the figures of San Juan, Jesús Prendido and La Dolorosa de las Lamentaciones are carried through the streets along the following route: Iglesia de Santiago, Miguel Trigueros, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, Arco de San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Pósito.

 

At the same time, the Cristo del Ecce Homo leaves the Iglesia de San Juan and is carried along Pio XII, Plaza del Rollo, Canalejas, Iglesia del Salvador, Pasos, Plaza de la Glorieta, Cánovas del Castillo, Avd. de Murcia, Portillo de la Glorieta to the Capilla del Rollo.

 

Sunday April 2, Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)

At midday the Procession of the Palms takes place, recreating the scene when Christ enters Jerusalem on a donkey to warn Jerusalem of the fate which would befall it, accompanied by a crowd waving palm and olive branches.

 

This endearing procession, the origins of which go back to the year 1521 (although the modern version dates from the 19^th century), provides a charming start to Easter Week as children dominate proceedings in the morning and everyone attempts to appear in photographs with the Lord. Jesus recites the prophecy of the destruction of Jerusalem, proclaiming that “not one stone here shall be left on another” as he and the Apostles enter Jumilla.

 

Route: Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, Calle Pío XII, Plaza del Rollo, Cánovas del Castillo, Plaza de la Constitución, Castelar, Santa María, Cuatro Cantones, Parroquia de Santiago.

 

During the afternoon the first phase of the transfer of the Cristo Amarrado a la Columna (Christ tied to the whipping post) by Francisco Salzillo, Murcia’s most famous sculptor, takes place. For most of the year the image resides in the monastery of Santa Ana, several kilometres from the town, and it is carried down into Jumilla on the shoulders of the faithful for Semana Santa every year.

 

Mass is usually held in the Monasterio de Santa Ana to bid farewell to the image at 17.00, after which the sculpture is carried down into the town below.

 

At around 20.00 the figure of Christ and the huge crowd accompanying it reach the Ermita de San Agustín, from where the procession continues to the parish church of Santiago during the evening.

 

Monday April 3, Lunes Santo (Holy Monday)

In the morning the transfer of the figure of Cristo Amarrado a la Columna is completed with the journey from the Iglesia de Santiago to the Capilla de la Hermandad del Cristo.

 

Route: Iglesia de Santiago, Cuatro Cantones, Santa María, Castelar, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Pasos, Avenida de Levante, Barón del Solar, ending at the Capilla de la Hermandad del Cristo.

 

In the evening another figure, the Cristo de la Reja, is transferred from the Convento de Santa Ana in the mountains outside Jumilla to the church of San Juan Bautista.

 

Route: Avenida de la Asunción, Cánovas del Castillo, Plaza de la Glorieta, Cánovas del Castillo, Plaza del Rollo, Pio XII, church of San Juan Bautista.

 

22.50: Later in the evening the Procession of Promises of the Holy Rosary takes place. This event was held for the first time in 2019 and files through the streets of the district of San Antón, leaving from the Convent of San José and ending at the chapel of the nursing home.

 

The figure of Our Lady of Sorrows (Nuestra Señora de los Dolores del Calvario) is carried through the streets to the accompaniment of recitals of the Rosary and the Litany of the Virgin, and the event is marked by the special devotion to the patron of Jumilla, the Virgen de la Asunción (the Virgin of the Assumption).

 

Route: Convento de San José, Barón del Solar, San Antón, Infante Don Fadrique, Ntra. Sra. de la Fuensanta, Jardín del Barrio de San Antón, Poeta Vicente Medina, Isaac Peral. Don Pedro Jiménez, Santo Tomás, Hermanitas, San Antón, Capilla del Asilo.

 

Tuesday April 4, Martes Santo (Easter Tuesday)

Holy Tuesday is a day of penitence in Jumilla: at 23.30 penitents dressed in black tunics tied with rope, dragging chains behind them, many barefoot, take part in a Vía Crucis of austerity. Lights are turned off and the only illumination is provided by the moon and the bonfires in the streets.

 

The figure of Cristo de la Vida is carried through the streets in silence, the night broken only by the beat of a solitary drum and the shuffle of feet.

 

At midnight a so-called Procession in Silence is held, although in fact it is accompanied by constant rhythmic drumming. Route: Iglesia de Santiago (south door then around to the north door), Cuatro Cantones, Santa María, Cuesta del Cura, Calle de Santiago, Plaza de Arriba, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Amargura, Calvario, Travesía de la Amargura, Primer Distrito, Travesía de Cruces, Miguel Trigueros, Parroquia Mayor de Santiago.

 

This procession stands out as being very different from the others during Easter Week in Jumilla. All ears are filled with the sounds of drum rolls and the jangling of the chains borne by penitents, while the only light is provided by the bonfires which illuminate the figures of the Cristo de la Vida and Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza (Our Lady of Hope) as they pass through the narrow streets surrounding the parish church.

 

Pasos:

1. Santísimo Cristo de la Vida (Planes)

2. Nuestra Señora de la Esperanza (R. Cuenca)

 

Wednesday April 5, Miércoles Santo (Easter Wednesday)

17.30: The performance of "El Prendimiento" (the Taking of Jesus). In late afternoon the events are re-created in in the Plaza de Arriba at the entrance to the old Palacio del Concejo.

 

This is an 8-part drama with 15 different scenes, written in verse and performed by 18 actors, and precedes the procession of Jesús Prendido in which 10 brotherhoods take part. The event has been held for at least the last 150 years and is one of the most popular of the rituals during the week.

 

22.00: The Procesión de Jesús Prendido begins at 22.00 at the Iglesia de El Salvador. Route: Canalejas, Esteban Tomás, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Verónica, Canalejas and Parroquia de El Salvador.

 

For over a century and a half the procession of the Taking of Christ has been setting out from the old church of the Virgen del Loreto, now renamed the church of El Salvador, an example of the Murcia baroque style of architecture. The figure of the Samaritan woman leads the way surrounded by lanterns in the Garden of Gethsemane, where Christ is arrested, prior to the denial of Peter as the sword of sorrow enters the Virgen’s body.

 

 

Pasos:

1. La Samaritana, Roca - 1949

2. Unción de Jesús en Betania, Azcoytia - 1987

3. Santa Cena, Biot - 1975

4. Oración del Huerto, Buiza - 1965.

5. Beso de Judas, Spiteri - 1989

6. Jesús Prendido, Pinazo - 1942

7. Negación de San Pedro, Hernández Navarro - 1993

8. Jesús ante Herodes, Azcoytia - 1985

9. San Juan Apóstol, Román y Salvador - 1942

10. Nuestra Señora del Primer Dolor, Sánchez Lozano - 1941

 

Thursday April 8, Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday)

 

 At 17.30 the “Manolas” (ladies wearing traditional headdresses) visit a series of locations and monuments in Jumilla while the male members of the brotherhoods visit the “pasos” installed in the churches and chapels, dressed in the distinctive tunics of their respective groups.

 

The ladies, though, don the traditional lace head-dresses known as “mantillas” (as has been the tradition since 1928), and as they march through the town each brotherhood is accompanied by its own band, creating a festive and relaxed atmosphere. Each group leaves from its own headquarters (the Hermandad del Rollo from the Jardín del Rollo, the Hermandad de Santa María Magdalena from the Casa del Pósito, the Hermandad Cristo Amarrado from the Teatro Vico and the Hermandad del Cristo de la Caída from Calle Albano Martínez).

 

The monuments visited are the Santa Teresa Jornet old people’s home and the churches of Santiago, El Salvador and San Juan Bautista.

 

21.45: Later in the evening the Procesión de la Amargura heralds a more sombre and serious mood, starting at the Iglesia de Santa María and finishing in the Iglesia del Salvador.

 

The Procesión de la Amargura (Procession of Bitterness) is the oldest in Jumilla, having been held in the streets of the town for six centuries since it was initiated by the Valencian Saint, San Vicente Ferrer. This is the heart of Jumilla bared in public, faith awakened as the sign of the cross blesses the people and respect and devotion bringing them to their feet to see the figure of Cristo Amarrado a la Columna (Christ at the Whipping Post) carried through the streets. As incense fills the air the procession ends with the passing of the figure of the Virgen de la Amargura.

 

Pasos:

1. Cristo Humillado, Spiteri - 2004

2. Santo Cristo de la Columna, Salzillo - 1756

3. Coronación de Espinas, Spiteri - 1998

4. Ecce Homo, González Moreno - 1980

5. Santo Cristo de la Sentencia, Santos de la Hera - 1979

6. Santo Cristo de la Caída, Anonymous – 19th century

7. Santo Cristo de la Misericordia, Hernández Navarro - 1992

8. Jesús se encuentra con las Hijas de Jerusalén, F. Limón Parra - 2004

9. Jesús de Pasión, F. Limón Parra - 1999

10. La Verónica, F. Liza - 1997

11. Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno, Pinazo - 1943

12. Nuestra Señora de la Amargura, Limón Parra - 1998

 

 

Route: Santa María, Castelar, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Cura Abellán, Canalejas, Iglesia del Salvador.

 

Friday April 7, Viernes Santo (Good Friday)

This is the most solemn day of the week, as befits the time between the crucifixion and the Resurrection. The 16 brotherhoods and pasos take part in the longest procession of Semana Santa in Jumilla, presided over by the figure of Nuestra Señora del Primer Dolor.

 

Beginning at 10.30 in the morning, the Procession of Calvary (Procesión del Calvario) has its roots in the 16^th or 17^th century, and begins and ends at the Iglesia del Salvador. After a year-long wait, at last the Passion of Christ reaches his death as the Cristo de Salud emerges from the church, Nazarenes carrying him out into the light and setting him down beside the door for the faithful to admire him with pride.

 

Route: Pasos, Canónigo Lozano, Canalejas, Pasos, Calvario, Cruces, Miguel Trigueros, Acomodadas, Cantarerías, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas, Teatro Vico.

 

Pasos:

1. La Samaritana, Lozano Roca - 1949

2. Unción de Jesús en Betania, Azcoytia - 1987

3. Oración del Huerto, Buiza - 1976

4. Beso de Judas, Spiteri - 1989

5. Jesús Prendido, Pinazo - 1952

6. Jesús ante Herodes, Azcoytia - 1985

7. Santo Cristo de la Columna, Salzillo - 1756

8. Santo Cristo de la Sentencia, Santos de la Hera - 1979

9. Santo Cristo de la Caída, Anonymous – 19th century

10. Santo Crito de la Misericordia, Hernández Navarro - 1992

11. Cristo de la Humildad y la Paciencia, Limón Parra - 2006

12. Elevación de la Cruz, Hernández Navarro - 2008

13. Santo Costado de Cristo, Planes / Sánchez Lozano / J.Díaz - 1966 /1968 /1972

14. Santo Cristo de la Salud, Anonymous – 18th century

15. Santa María Magdalena, Pinazo - 1943

16. Nuestra Señora del Primer Dolor, Sánchez Lozano - 1941

 

22.00: In the evening the Procession of the Holy Burial (Procesión del Santo Entierro) takes place, with the figures followed by many barefoot penitents amongst the participants in a highly solemn and intense event. As night falls the mood turns quiet and serious in preparation as the processional tableaux gather around the earliest church in the town of Jumilla as we know it today.

 

The Nazarenes cover their faces with the hoods of their tunics and the bearers begin their act of penitence as their shoulders carry the holy weight of their devotion: they do not feel the burden, though, as they march firmly and majestically on into the most eagerly awaited night of the week.

 

This procession dates back to the year 1609, when the Cofradía del Rosario brotherhood was founded, although it is believed that prior to that a similar tradition existed for around another 200 years.

 

Pasos:

1. Cristo de la Expiración
2. Santo Costado del Cristo
3. Cristo de la Salud
4. Cristo de la Reja
5. Cristo de la Cinco Llagas
6. Descendimiento de la Cruz
7. Virgen de las Angustias
8. Virgen de la Piedad
9. Lamentaciones ante Cristo Muerto
10. Traslado al Sepulcro
11. Vera Cruz
12. Santo Sepulcro
13. Santa María Magdalena
14. San Pedro Apóstol
15. San Juan Apóstol
16. Virgen de la Soledad

 

Route: Santa María, Castelar, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, San Roque, Plaza de la Constitución, Cánovas del Castillo, Pasos, Calvario y Cruces, ending in Salvador Pérez de los Cobos.

 

Saturday April 8, Sábado Santo (Easter Saturday)

At midday the figure of Santísimo Cristo Yacente is carried through the streets. Route: Casa de la Hermandad, Barón del Solar, San Roque, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, Miguel Trigueros, Iglesia de Santiago.

 

19.00: However, the main event of the day is the Procesión de la Redención (Redemption Procession) in the evening. Night falls to the sound of violins and trumpets as an event takes place in which the seriousness and religious nature of processions of old are maintained along with the tunic designs of the 19th century. The procession begins at the church of Santiago and makes its way to the church of San Roque, mixing Andalusian traditions with the more austere heritage of Castilla and the Franciscans. Three “pasos” are carried in a procession in which women play an important part.

 

Pasos:

1. Cristo de la Redención

2. La Guardia del Cuerpo de Cristo

3. Virgen de las Penas

Route: Iglesia Mayor de Santiago (north door), Miguel Trigueros, Cruces, Calvario, Pasos, Cánovas, Plaza de la Constitución, Castelar, Santa Maria, Cuatro Cantones, Iglesia Mayor de Santiago.

The procession is followed by the Tamborada de Gloria, another drumming session performed by the Brotherhood of Cristo del Perdón, starting in the Plaza de Arriba and making its way to the Mercado de Abastos, where it ends at approximately midnight.

 

Sunday April 9, Domingo de la Resurrección (Easter Sunday)

The day of light, of flowers, of resurrection and of celebration: the mood changes as the oppression of penitence is lifted and this is the moment of celebration.

 

At midday the Procesión de Jesús Resucitado is held, with 11 pasos following the route accompanied by cheerful music (at last!) including pasodobles and showering the watching crowds with sweets. This procession was created in 1959 by a group within the brotherhood of San Juan Apóstol to close the cycle of Semana Santa processions in Jumilla.

 

Against the backdrop of the pines and palm trees of the Plaza del Rollo, and accompanied by firecrackers, the traditional “encuentro” (meeting) takes place between Jesús Resucitado and his mother, the Virgen Gloriosa, during which the Roman soldiers march in snail-shell formation, a feature which was appropriated from the Saturday procession where it had been included since the late 19^th century.

 

The procession is headed by the Cross of Triumph, followed by the kneeling angel spreading its wings and the figure of Christ resurrected. The subsequent colourful scenes include the road to Emaus and the apparitions before Thomas and in Tiberias before a colourful and joyous climax is provided by the “Caramelada”, a battle of sweets thrown by Nazarenes and members of the crowd as they let off steam after a whole year of effort and hard work in preparation for the Semana Santa celebrations.

 

An occasion for joy, tiredness and nostalgia as Semana Santa in Jumilla ends for another year.

 

Pasos:

1. Cruz Triunfante, Lozano Roca – 1972

2. San Miguel Arcángel, José María Leal - 2009

3. Santas Mujeres ante el Sepulcro vacío, Parra - 2004

4. Nuestro Padre Jesús Resucitado, Planes - 1959

5. San Pedro Apóstol, González Moreno - 1966

6. Aparición de la Virgen María, Arturo Serra - 2007

7. Aparición Santa María Magdalena, Hernández Navarro - 1993

8. Aparición a los discípulos de Emaús, Arturo Serra - 1998

9. Aparición a Santo Tomás, Hernández Navarro - 1985

10. Aparición en el lago de Tiberiades, Labaña Serrano - 1996

11. Virgen Gloriosa, Lozano Roca – 1960

Route: Plaza del Rollo, Cánovas del Castillo, Plaza de la Constitución, San Roque, Salvador Pérez de los Cobos, Cruces, Calvario, Pasos, Cánovas del Castillo.

The Easter Week processions in Cartagena are the first to get under way in Spain

Military precision, sleek shining lines of gliding penitents and the sheer scale of the atmospheric Semana Santa processions in Cartagena make this one of the most popular Easter Week events in the Region of Murcia, and certainly well worth visiting.

 

Semana Santa in Cartagena is unique, and in very few ways resembles processions in other parts of the region despite having the same core elements. The city’s military background and long naval history have resulted in regimented processions, silent lines of synchronised penitents, staffs tapping in unison, smooth satin shining in the glow of polished lamps.

 

Although the processions are impressive in their scale and richness, there is still an incredible intimacy to Cartagena’s Semana Santa. The narrow streets with crafted wrought iron balconies and sensuously curving modernist balconies create an atmosphere which embraces spectators.

 

There are four brotherhoods or Cofradías, the most famous being the Californios, who wear red, and the Marrajos, in deep purple, with a traditionally deep rivalry between the two.

 

Los Marrajos are officially known as the Royal and Illustrious Brotherhood of Our Lord Jesus of Nazareth, and are the oldest Cofradía, dating back to the 17th century and the port of Cartagena. The nickname comes from a tradition that in order to pay for their procession, fishermen earned the extra money needed by selling a specific species of fish, a mako shark, known as a marrajo.

They wear distinctive rich purple and organise the two main Good Friday Processions, the procession of the Promises of piety on Holy Monday and of the True Cross on Saturday.

 

The Illustrious Cofradía of the most Holy and Royal Christ of the Succour was founded in 1691 as an aristocratic brotherhood by the Duke of Veragua as a means of giving thanks for the miraculous cure of his son. He also built a spectacular chapel in the old cathedral of Cartagena, but sadly this was gutted during the Civil War. Their main job is to head the Via Crucis on the morning of Viernes de Dolores, an early morning event on the Friday before Palm Sunday.

 

The Californios (full name “La Pontificia, Real e Ilustre Cofradía de Nuestro Padre Jesús en el Doloroso Paso del Prendimiento y Esperanza para la Salvación de las Almas”) date back to the 18th century, and some claim that they owe their name to the participation of a group of seafarers who had made their fortunes in California. This well-funded brotherhood gathered an impressive collection of sculptures by the master sculptor Salzillo as the city enjoyed a time of economic stability and growth, but sadly most were destroyed during the turbulence of the Civil War.

 

They’re distinctive in their vibrant red habits, and are most in evidence on Wednesday night, on the night of Viernes de Dolores, the Palm Sunday procession and the procession of silence on Maundy Thursday.

 

The Royal and Illustrious brotherhood of Our Lord Jesus Resurrected. Glowing in white, this brotherhood is the youngest, founded in 1943, and organizes the procession of the Resurrection on Easter Sunday morning.

 

March 31 to April 10, Semana Santa 2023 in Cartagena

NOTE: ALL TIMINGS ARE PROVISIONAL PENDING CONFIRMATION AND PROCESSIONS ARE SUSCEPTIBLE TO CANCELLATION IN THE EVENT OF ADVERSE WEATHER CONDITIONS

 

Friday March 31, Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows)

 

As well as being the first day of Holy Week this is the feast day of the patron saint of Cartagena, the Virgen de La Caridad, making it a day of special significance and a local holiday in the city of Cartagena. The celebrations begin extremely early in the morning, with the first procession strictly reserved for early risers or those who don't mind not going to bed!

Later in the afternoon a substantial Vía Crucis with large “tronos” takes one route, while hundreds of people dressed in regional costume make a floral offering via a separate route. At one point, the Viá Crucis passes the entrance of the church of La Caridad, which is already filled with thousands of flowers from the floral offering, and the components of the Via Crucis acknowledge the “patrona” before continuing on their route.

The full timetable is as follows:

 

3.30 am: The Cofradía de Cristo del Socorro depart from Calle Sepulcro, next to the old ruined Cathedral of Cartagena, where they will arrive back at 7.15. Accompanied by a single drummer, the participants wear rough woollen robes, and the mood one is one of serious contemplation.

 

Route: Sepulcro, Concepción, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire (first Station of the Cross at the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia, to make an offering to the former patrona of the city, the Virgen del Rosell), Honda, Plaza San Francisco, Arco de la Caridad, San Vicente, Plaza del Sevillano, Serreta (second Station of the Cross in the Iglesia de la Santísima Virgen de la Caridad, to attend the 6.00 Eucharist). Following Mass, at 6.30 the procession continues along the streets of Caridad, Plaza Risueño, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés (where the Vía Crucis concludes and the Salve of Cartagena is sung), Calle Concepción and Calle Sepulcro.

 

Processional order:

The flag or standard of the Cofradía

The shroud of the Brotherhood

The figure of the Virgen de la Caridad

The figure and plinth of the Virgen del Consuelo (sculpture by José Hernández Navarro, plinth by Juan Miguel Cervilla)

The ladies accompanying the Virgin

The rough wooden cross of the Cofradía

The Company of the Cristo del Socorro

Dignitaries of the Cofradía

Representatives of the fire brigade

The figure and podium of the Cristo del Socorro (sculpture by Manuel Ardil, podium by Miguel Ángel Lorente, carried by 65 members of the Brotherhood)

 

11.00 to 14.00: Children’s parade by members of the Marrajos in the old city centre.

 

11.30: An ounce of gold is offered in a ceremony at the Iglesia de la Caridad by the Mayoress.

17.00: Floral offering leaving from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. Hundreds of people dressed in traditional regional costumes leave the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and parade to the Iglesia de la Caridad where they make floral offerings to the patron of Cartagena, which are placed in a huge frame outside the door of the church. It´s a good idea to get inside the church if possible, as from time to time the groups form up inside the church and dance in front of the altar. As the floral offering ends, the Via Crucis stops at the door of the church, both the tronos of Mary and Jesus bobbing to acknowledge the patrona before the Via Crucis continues.

 

18.00: Processional Via Crucis. This departs from the Capilla y Casa del Cristo in the Plaza de la Merced. It then follows a route around the old town of Cartagena, stopping at the Iglesi ade la Caridad. When it finally reaches the Plaza de la Merced, the “tronos” split off, then meet back up again for what’s known as an “encuentro”, to tumultuous applause and fireworks. Following this Vía Crucis and joining inis quite an experience, especially practising Catholics.

 

If you can manage to position yourself near to the church, it’s then possible to join in the Vía Crucis and follow it to the Plaza de la Merced for the encuentro, which is quite an experience. There’s time after this for a spot of tapas before finding a place from which to watch the main procession.

 

Route: Plaza de la Merced, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Plaza San Francisco, Arco de la Caridad, San Vicente, Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, and returning to the Plaza de la Merced.

 

21.00: Procession Santísimo Cristo de la Misericordia (Cofradía California). This procession begins at the church of Santa María de Gracia and lasts around 4 hours.

 

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puerta de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Plaza de Juan XXIII, Parque, Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Plaza de Serreta, Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire and the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

All of the figures carried in this procession were sculpted by Jose Hernández - Alegoría de los Siete Dolores de la Virgen, Jesús y María en casa de Lázaro, La Despedida de Jesús de la Santísima Virgen, Santísimo Cristo de la Misericordia and María Santísima del Rosario en sus Misterios Dolorosos, and most are carried by female members of the Californios.

Saturday April 1 (Saturday of Passion)

With a multitude of individual “tronos” and processions criss-crossing the streets, this is a difficult evening to follow! They´re listed for those who want to try, but although it’s not easy there’s a certain charm about the almost furtive movements of tronos in the back streets of the city.

 

18.00: The figure of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (Our Father Jesus of Nazareth) is taken by the Cofradía Marraja from the Iglesia de Santo Domingo to the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol in the fishing district of Santa Lucia.

 

Route: Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Jara, Campos, San Francisco, Plaza San Ginés, Duque, Plaza de la Merced, San Diego, Plaza de Bastarreche, Avenida Trovero Marín, Puente Mompeán, Paseo Delicias. Arrives at the Iglesia de Santiago Apóstol at 19.25.

 

19.00: The figure of Nuestro Padre Jesús de Medinaceli is taken by the Cofradía Marraja from the Iglesia of Santa María de Gracia to the former Marine hospital (ETS campus).

 

Route: Aire, Cañón, Principe de Vergara, General Ordóñez, going up the Rampart, Muralla del Mar and University campus. Concludes at 19.48 at the former Marine hospital (ETS campus).

 

19.00: The figure of the Virgen de la Esperanza is taken by the Cofradía California on a route to the church of Santa María de Gracia. Route: Calle Ramón y Cajal, Plaza de España, Calle Carmen, Puerta de Murcia, Plaza de San Sebastián, Calle Aire, Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

19.30: Penitential Via Crucis of the Santísimo Cristo de la Misericordia (Cofradía California)

 

Departure Iglesia Santa María de Gracia. Route: Iglesia Santa María de Gracia, Aire, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puerta de Murcia, Calle Carmen, Plaza España (east side) and Colegio Carmelitas.

 

20.00: The figure of the Santísimo Cristo de la Agonía is taken by the Cofradía Marraja from the Colegio del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús in Calle Saura to the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia in Calle Aire.

 

Route: Calle Saura, Gloria, Subida a San Diego, Plaza Merced, Duque, Serreta, Arco de la Caridad, Plaza de San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire, arriving at the Iglesia de Santa María at 21.00. The figure will remain here until it is featured in the procession of Good Friday.

 

This event has been held since 1910, when it was candle-lit and went from Calle Adarve to the Iglesia de Santo Domingo.

 

20.45: The figure of the Virgen de la Esperanza (Cofradía Marraja) is taken from the Colegio de las Carmelitas to the Puertas de Murcia.

Route: Plaza España (east side), Carmen, Puerta de Murcia.

 

20.45: The figure of the Santísimo Cristo de la Sentencia (Cofradía California) is taken from Calle Cristo de la Sentencia to Calle Carmen.

Route: Calle Cristo de la Sentencia (next to the police station), Menéndez Pelayo, Plaza de España (west side), Calle Carmen.

 

21.00: The figure of the Virgen de la Vuelta al Calvario is taken by the Cofradía California to Puertas de Murcia. Departure from the Parque de Artillería, López Pinto, Parque, Plaza Juan XXIII, Santa Florentina, Puertas de Murcia.

 

These events include a meeting or “encuentro” of the Cristo de la Sentencia, the Virgen de la Vuelta al Calvario and the VIrgen de la Esperanza in Calle Carmen, from where the three continue along Puertas de Murcia, Plaza San Sebastián and Aire to the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

Sunday April 2, Domingo de Ramos (Palm Sunday)

This is one of the most important days of Semana Santa for the Cofradía California, and begins during the morning when the Roman soldiers of the brotherhood parade through the city centre, prior to the main event in the afternoon and evening.

 

17.00: The Entry of Jesus into Jerusalem (Cofradía California). This is a popular procession to watch as is very family orientated and many children participate. It’s also visual, with biblical elements making it a lighter and more joyful procession. The procession leaves from the Church of Santa María de Gracia.

 

The biblical elements include Moses, King David, the Ark of the Covenant and King Herod, as well as the Roman soldiers, and the sculpted figures carried through the streets number among them José Sánchez Lozano’s San Pedro Apóstol, La Elección de los Zebedeos by Juan José Quirós, the Sermon on the Mount by Juan González Rey, La Imposición del Primado by José Hernández, Los Milagros de Jesús by Juan José Quirós, Jesus on the road to Jerusalem by José Hernández, La Unción en Betania by José Hernández Navarro, and Jesus Entering Jerusalem by José Sánchez Lozano.

 

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puertas de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, Plaza López Pinto, Serreta, Plaza de la Serreta, Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire, and back to the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

Monday April 3, Lunes Santo (Holy Monday)

 

21.00: Procession de las Promesas de la Santisima Virgen de la Piedad (Cofradía Marraja). This is the first procession of the Cofradía Marraja during Easter Week, and is known as the “procession of promises” due to the large quantity of these which accompany the procession of the Virgen of Piety and Charity.

 

Although it is not the largest of the Cartagena processions, it’ has a special significance to residents, with just one sculpted tableau (the Santísima Virgen de la Caridad, created by José Capuz in 1925) and 2 smaller images at the centre of a tide of devotion, with the townspeople following behind. The images arrive at the Iglesia de la Caridad amidst a sea of the faithful at about 23:40, and the salve of Cartagena is sung by spectators before the throne continues to Santa María de Gracia.

 

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puertas de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Caridad, Plaza del Risueño, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire and back to the church of Santa María de Gracia.

Tuesday April 4, Martes Santo (Easter Tuesday)

This is an important day for the military elements of Cartagena, with three apostles departing from different military buildings, Saint James (Santiago) from the Admiralty, Saint John from the Artillery Headquarters and Saint Peter from the Military Arsenal. They then meet at Plaza San Sebastián, whence they continue to the church of Santa María de Gracia.

 

The Journey of the Apostles

 

This is an event full of local history, with its roots lying in Cartagena’s military and marine traditions.

 

In 1755 the rigging staff who worked in the Military Arsenal asked if they could pay for the costs of transporting San Pedro in the Procession of the taking of Jesus, which was accepted providing that Saint Peter went onto the military payroll. He remained on the payroll until 2012, shown as Pedro Marina Cartagena, when he was officially removed and retired.

 

However, the tradition which took place every Holy Tuesday still continues, when he asks the admiral for leave to attend the procession. This is granted, so after a prayer for all those who have given their lives for Spain he is carried to the Plaza de Armas and solemnly granted leave, on condition that he is back by Thursday. Naturally, he never is, so he is solemnly arrested when he returns at the end of Semana Santa and is held in formal military custody until the following year.

 

From here, with military precision, the float emerges from the military at 21.00 and heads to the church of Santa María de Gracia.

 

Saint John (San Juan Evangelista), meanwhile, has left the Antiguo Parque de Artillería in Plaza de López Pinto at 20.42, while Saint James (Santiago) has departed at 20.37 from the Muralla del Mar and the Palace of the Military Government which overlooks the port of Cartagena.

(These exact timings alter every year depending on the time of sunset.)

 

San Juan departs from the Artillery Headquarters. Route: Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Plaza de Serreta (where a floral offering is made in the Iglesia de la Caridad), Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara and Plaza de San Sebastián.

 

Santiago leaves the Naval headquarters in Muralla del Mar. Route: Príncipe Vergara, Subida de las Monjas, Plaza Ayuntamiento, Cañón, Aire, San Miguel, Campos, Plaza San Francisco (west side), Ignacio García, Balcones Azules, Honda, Plaza de San Sebastián.

 

San Pedro leaves from the Military Arsenal. Route: Real, Castellini, Puerta de Murcia and Plaza de San Sebastián.

 

The three Apostles meet in the Plaza San Sebastián at approximately 21.50 and continue together along Mayor, Cañón and Aire to the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia. They are accompanied by the allegorical Angel of Passion.

Wednesday April 5, Miércoles Santo (Easter Wednesday)

This is the most important day of Easter Week for the Cofradía California and includes one of the great processions of Semana Santa in Cartagena, with 13 sculpted tableaux taking part.

 

17.45: Before the procession begins there is a dramatized performance of the trial of Christ in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento, in which Pontius Pilate washes his hands of the whole situation, and then throws the water over the watching crowd. Following the theatrical representation the crowds file off to the church of Santa María to view the “tronos” all lined up ready for departure.

 

The procession narrates the story of the betrayal of Christ through the order of the tronos, and is a huge affair full of light, flowers, music, swaying satin and colour.

 

21.00: The procession of the “Prendimiento” (The Taking of Christ) departs from the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia, where it will not return until 3.00 in the morning. Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puerta de Murcia, Jabonerías, San Roque, Carmen, Santa Florentina, Plaza Juan XXIII, Parque, Plaza López Pinto, Serreta, Plaza de la Serreta, Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire, and back to the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

Processional order:

Standards of the Cofradía.

The “carro bocina”, which carried the coat of arms of the Cofradía.

The women of the “Prendimiento” group, carrying its shroud and other insignia.

The “Granaderos” (grenadiers), wearing 18th century marine artillery uniforms.

The tableau of the Last Supper, figures of Jesus and the Disciples by García Talens (1949).

The tableau of the Oración en el Huerto (the Garden of Gethsemane) with the three sleeping disciples carved by none other than the grand master Francisco Salzillo in 1761. Jesus and the angel are by Sánchez Lozano.

The tableau of the Kiss of Judas, with Malchus and a fallen guard by Salzillo (1762)and the figures of San Pedro, Jesus, Judas and other guards by Mariano Benlliure (1946).

The tableau of the Taking of Christ, by Benlluire (1942).

The Roman Soldiers (popularly known in Cartagena as “los judíos” (the Jews).

The allegory of the Angel.

The trial of Jesus, featuring the last sculpture created by Sánchez Lozano for the californios.

The tableau of the Arrepentimiento de San Pedro (the repentance of Saint Peter), created by José Hernández Navarro in 2004.

The tableau of the Santísimo Cristo de la Flagelación, by Mariano Benlliure.

The Crown of Thorns (Federico Collaut-Valera, 1963).

The Sentencing of Jesus (José Hernández Navarro, 1991).

Santiago Apóstol (Sánchez Lozano, 1977).

San Pedro (Sánchez Lozano, 1940).

San Juan Evangelista (Mariano Benlliure, 1946).

La Virgen del Primer Dolor, also known as the “Madre de los Californios”, created by Benlliure in 1946 as a reproduction of the 1879 original by Mancha and Requena.

The 73rd Anti-Aircraft Artillery regiment.

 

Thursday April 6, Jueves Santo (Maundy Thursday)

On this night the lights are turned out and the penitents walk in silence in an atmospheric, moving procession, with the silence pierced only by the sound of a Saeta, sung from a balcony above the street. If possible, stand near the entrance of the Church, to watch the Pasos as they arrive back!

 

19.15: Roman soldiers pay their respects to the image of Christ Ecce Homo at the Iglesia de Santa María, and offer a crown of flowers which will be at the figure’s feet during the procession. (Cofradía California)

 

20.45: The rules of the procession, which were drawn up in 1928, are read, obliging all of those taking part except the Hermano Mayor of the brotherhood and the Capellán to keep their faces covered and maintain strict silence.

 

21.00: The Procesión del Silencio y del Santísimo Cristo de los Mineros leaves the Iglesia de Santa María on the following route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puerta de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, Plaza Juan XXIII, Parque, Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Plaza Serreta, Caridad, Plaza de la Inmaculada, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire and back to the Iglesia of Santa María de Gracia where the traditional Hail Mary is sung as the pasos re-enter the church.

 

Processional order:

The standard bearers of the Cofradía.

The Tercio del Ósculo, who march with a fallen cross carried by four penitents, lit by four lanterns.

The tableau of the Ecce Homo with the image of the Taking of Christ by Manuel Benlliure.

The tableau of the Santísimo Cristo de los Mineros, the only figure of the Crucifixion paraded by the Californios (García Talens, 1958).

The tableau of the Vuelta al Calvario (the return to Calvary) by José Sánchez Lozano, with the figure of María de Cleofás by García Talens.

The tableau of the Virgen de la Esperanza (Pérez Comendador, 1943).

The armed group of the Granaderos.

Friday April 7, Viernes Santo (Good Friday)

The early morning processions of the Cofradía Marraja are some of the most atmospheric and meaningful of the week, but are rarely seen by visitors because they take place before dawn on Good Friday. The climax of the five processions is the “Encuentro” in Plaza de la Merced at 5.40 a.m.

 

0.05: The longest day of processions in Semana Santa begins at just after midnight when the Roman soldiers and “Granaderos” set out from Callejón de Bretau, just off Calle Jara.

 

2.00: The Procesión de la Mujer Verónica leaves the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia on the following route: Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia, Aire, Plaza de San Sebastián, Honda, Plaza de San Francisco, Arco de la Caridad, Caridad, Don Roque, Plaza de Roldán, Calle Saura, Calle Gloria, Calle San Diego, Plaza de la Merced.

 

Processional order:

Standard bearers of the Cofradía.

The platform of the “Carro Bocina” (Manuel Orrico Gay, 1969).

The Grenadiers who have taken part in this procession since the 18th century.

The tableau of the Condena de Jesús (Juan Abascal).

The tableau of the first fall of Jesus (Suso de Marcos)

The tableau of Verónica (Federico Coullaut-Valera, 1948).

 

2.10: Jesus of Medinaceli leaves the Polytechnic University of Cartagena. The figure created by Juan González Moreno takes the following route: University, Muralla Carlos III, San Diego, joining up with the first procession in Calle de la Gloria.

 

2.30: Jesus of Nazareth leaves the Santa Lucia fish market through a wrought iron gate which is opened only on this occasion every year. The statue was sculpted by José Capuz in 1945, and is accompanied by the Roman soldiers or “Judíos”.

Route: Pescadería, Calle de Jesús, Pinacho, Paseo Delicias, Puente Mompeán, Avenida Trovero Marín, Plaza Bastarreche, San Diego and Plaza de la Merced.

 

2.45: The Santísima Virgen Dolorosa (Our Lady of Sorrows, sculpted by José Capuz in 1943) leaves the church of Santa María de Gracia on the following route: Aire, Jara, Campos, Plaza de Francisco, Arco de la Caridad, Caridad, Plaza Risueño, Don Roque and La Plaza de la Merced.

 

4.30: The elaborately choreographed route planning leads to the “encuentro” outside the Palacio Aguirre in the Plaza de la Merced, before the groups carry on together to the church of Santa María de Gracia via Duque, Plaza de San GInés, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián and Aire before arriving back at the Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

8.00: The marathon procession ends at the Iglesia de Santa María.

20.00: The Procesión del Santo Enterramiento de Cristo, Procession of the Holy Burial (Cofradía Marraja). 12 splendid tableaux take part in this procession of the Holy Burial, which holds some of the greatest sculptural works in Cartagena’s collection. It’s the longest of the processions, and includes some of the most beautiful “tronos” on display throughout the week.

 

These include numerous works by José Capuz, including the Descedimiento (1930) and the Santo Sepulcro (1926), and one recommended spectating spot is next to the Icue monument at the junction of Calle Puertas de Murcia, Calle Sagasta and Calle Carmen.

 

The last tableau, featuring the figure of the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad, leaves the church at approximately 23.05.

 

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Plaza de San Sebastián, Puertas de Murcia, Sagasta, Puerta de Madrid, Carmen, Santa Florentina, Parque, Plaza de López Pinto, Serreta, Caridad, Plaza del Risueño, Duque, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire, Iglesia de Santa María.

 

Processional order:

Standard bearers.

Grenadier cadets (children) with the insignia on the “Carro Bocina”.

18th-century Grenadiers.

The tableau of Nuestro Padre Jesús Nazareno (José Capúz, 1945).

The tableau of the Expolio de Jesús (the 10th Station of the Cross) (Juan Abascal Fuentes).

The tableau of the Santa Agonía de Cristo (the Agony of Christ). The statue of Jesus is by Carles Flotats i Galtés, and that of Mary is by Efraín Gómez Montón.

The tableau of La Lanzada (Antonio García Mengual).

The tableau of the Santísimo Descendimiento (Jesus being taken down from the Cross) (José Capúz, 1930).

The tableau of the Santísima Virgen de la Piedad (José Capúz, 1925).

The tableau of the Santísimo Enterramiento de Cristo (Juan González Moreno, 1959).

The Roman soldiers or “Judíos”.

The tableau of the Santo Sepulcro and CHrist fallen (José Capúz, 1926).

The tableau of Santa María Magdalena (José Hernández Navarro, 1984).

The tableau of San Juan Evangelista (José Capúz, 1943). The light son the “capirotes” of the penitents are candles!

The tableau of the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad (José Capúz, 1943).

The Tercio de Levante marine infantry division.

Saturday April 8, Sábado Santo (Easter Saturday)

19.00: Procession of the Vera Cruz (The True Cross) by the Cofradía Marraja. This is the most austere of the processions of the brotherhood, and all lighting is with candles.

 

Route: Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia, Aire, San Miguel, Campos, San Francisco, Plaza de San Ginés, Duque, Caridad, Serreta, Plaza de López Pinto, Parque, Santa Florentina, Puertas de Murcia, Plaza de San Sebastián, Mayor, Cañón, Aire, Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

Processional order:

Standard bearers (the main standard is a copy of the 18th century original).

The holy shroud group and penitents.

Junior Grenadiers.

The Carro Bocina.

A replica of the Holy Shroud of Turin.

The tableau of the Santo Amor de San Juan en la Soledad de la Virgen (José Capuz, 1953).

The Vera Cruz, creadted by gold and silver smiths in Sevilla.

The tableau of the Santísima Virgen de la Soledad de los Pobres (Juan González Moreno, 1956).

Grenadiers in mourning.

 

19.10: Procession of the Santas Mujeres (Cofradía Marraja). The procession includes one trono carried by women only (140 of them), the Virgen de la Soledad de los Pobres. In fact there are three saintly women featured, the Virgen de la Soledad (sculpted by Jesús Azcoytia), Santa María Magdalena (José Hernández Navarro) and Santa María de Cleofé (Roque López, 1784).

 

The procession leaves from the door of the Casa de Misericordia, San Diego, Plaza de la Merced, Duque, from where it joins with the procession of the Vera Cruz, and a good place to watch is at the corner of Duque and Calle Caridad. Route: Casa de Misericordia, San Diego, Plaza de la Merced, Duque, where it joins the Procesión de la Vera Cruz.

Sunday April 9, Domingo de Resurrección (Easter Sunday)

A total change. White, light, flowers, a celebration of Christ arisen, an enjoyable family parade full of light and flowers. Look out for the trono of Saint Peter, who is accompanied by nets full of fish! A long procession organized by the Cofradía del Resucitado, which takes several hours to file past.

 

10.30: Procession of the Resurrection, starting at the church of Santa María de Gracia. Route: Aire, Jara, Campos, San Francisco, Plaza de San Ginés, Duque, Plaza del Risueño, Caridad, Serreta, Plaza de López Pinto, Parque, Santa Florentina, Carmen, San Roque, Sagasta, Puertas de Murcia, Plaza de San Sebastián, Mayor, Cañón, Aire, Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

When the Santísima Virgen del Amor Hermoso arrives back at the church, the figure of Nuestro Padre Jesús Resucitado comes out to greet his mother. After the traditional Salve has been sung the Virgen enters the church and the Easter Week processions end with fireworks.

Monday April 10

20.00: This year, unusually, an "extra" procession takes place on the day after Easter Sunday in commemoration of the first ever procession featuring the Cofradía California, which took place on April 10th 1748. This procession begins and ends at the parish church of Santa María de Gracia.

 

Route: Calle Aire, Calle Cañón, Calle Mayor, Plaza San Sebastián, Calle Honda, Balcones Azules, Calle Ignacio García, Plaza San Francisco, Arco de la Caridad, Calle San Vicente, Calle Francisco Irsino, Calle Caridad, Calle Arco Caridad, Plaza San Francisco, San Antonio el Pobre, Plaza San Ginés, Cuatro Santos, Calle Jara, Calle San Miguel, Calle Aire, Iglesia de Santa María de Gracia.

 

Processional order

1. Guiones.

2. Tercio del Prendimiento y Andas con Jesús Prendido,

3. Roman soldiers.

4. Tercio de la Santísima Virgen del Primer Dolor y Andas con la Santísima Virgen del Primer Dolor.

 

Which are the best processions to attend during Cartagena’s Semana Santa?

There are many events where it’s not necessary to reserve a seat, but to purchase one is often an excellent idea as the full processions can take 4 to 6 hours to pass by. Seats are sold next to the church of Santa María de Gracia or in Plaza San Sebastián.

 

Each parade has its own atmosphere and is unique for different reasons, but unless visitors are Catholics and embrace the religious significance of Semana Santa, then the parades are viewed as being of tourist interest, and an insight into the religious customs of Spain. Going into a town or city to watch the parades should be viewed as just part of an experience, and enjoying a spot of tapas or a drink are also part of the evening. For this reason visitors often prefer to attend the larger parades as there’s more to see.

 

Look at the sweets being sold: there are little penitent lollipops, complete with pointed capirotes and staff. Look in the bakers: eggs are enveloped in traditional mona de pascua cakes sold for Easter week, and there are often tiny versions on sale made with quail eggs as well as the popular single egg versions.

 

Recommended:

Friday March 31, Day of the Patrona: the floral offering at 17.00 and the Via Crucis later.

Sunday April 2, Palm Sunday: the Procession of the Palms at 17.00, a children’s procession, with a large number of participants.

Wednesday April 5, Easter Wednesday: the dramatized representation of the trial of Christ in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento followed by the first of the large processions.

Friday April 7, Good Friday: the long procession of the Santo Entierro starting at 21.00: buy a seat and take a rug!

Sunday April 9, Easter Sunday: the resurrection procession at 10.30, full of light and life and totally different in its atmosphere from the rest of the week.

 

Semana Santa in the Region of Murcia

The Semana Santa (Easter Week or Holy Week) celebrations in Spain can be quite bewildering for north European expats and visitors, but this is no reason to avoid them. After all, from a Spanish point of view the way in which Easter is celebrated by the majority of the UK (with the exception, of course, of practising Catholics) has an equally incomprehensible fixation on chocolate eggs and bunnies.

 

In Spain, on the other hand, Semana Santa is a time of spectacle, faith, suffering, sacrifice, penitence, art, beauty, generations-old loyalty, endurance, reaffirmation of local identity, community spirit, love, joy, deliverance and, above all, passion: the passion of preserving age-old traditions and the Passion (with a capital P) of the last days of the life of Jesus Christ. These elements have become stronger and stronger with the passing of the centuries, and while the celebrations in each village, town and city are different they all reflect the local identities which have been forged over time within the framework of the Passion.

 

It is generally fair to say that the Semana Santa processions are more important in central and southern Spain than in the north, perhaps because of the unforgiving climate and relative historical poverty and hardship which the locals have endured for centuries, and a week of re-enacting those hardships culminates in the joy of Resurrection Sunday. While this may mean little to visitors from abroad, it is no reason for them not to appreciate the commitment of the Spanish – including the Murcianos – to perpetuating the celebrations which have taken shape over the ages.

 

Of 10 local fiestas to have been awarded International Tourist Interest status in the Region of Murcia, 4 are the Semana Santa celebrations in Jumilla, Lorca, Cartagena and the city of Murcia, and various others are classified as being of National Tourist Interest. All of the local Semana Santa programs have their own traditions and unique ways of celebrating Easter, but at the same time the essence of the week remains the last days of Jesus Christ, his crucifixion and his resurrection.

 

In the capital city of Murcia the processions are large-scale affairs, attended by huge crowds who divide their attention between the historic sculptures by Francisco Salzillo being paraded through the old centre, the lively atmosphere in the bars and restaurants along the route and the unusual sight of statues being lowered through the window of a church because they are too big to fit through the door, or witnessing the ass of red as they 4,000 “Coloraos” cross the Puente Vieja on Wednesday evening.

 

In Lorca, meanwhile, the razzmatazz and exquisitely embroidered cloaks are at times more reminiscent of a grand circus-style show than of a deeply emotional religious occasion. Roman chariots race through the streets as the crowds applaud feats of daring horsemanship, and the local population is divided between their loyalties to the “Blues” and the “Whites” as the two groups compete to put on the most spectacular show.

 

At the other end of the scale is the military precision of the solemn parades in Cartagena, where the processions begin in the very early hours of Viernes de Dolores, before any others in the whole of Spain, while the penitents in Jumilla continue a tradition of Easter processions which is among the earliest to be recorded in the country, dating back at least as far as 1411, and the recent award of International Tourist Interest status reflects the rich artistic heritage, colour, devotion and enthusiasm. which have inspired the locals for over six centuries.