El Portus beach, sheltered rocky cove with character, within the Cartagena municipality

Cartagena Spain, El Portus beach, 2 pebbled beaches next to naturist campsite

If you fancy the atmosphere of an old fishing community in a sheltered rocky little bay, head for El Portus in the Cartagena municipality.

The drive through winding country lanes is an experience in its own right, passing through the tiny village of Galifa before dropping down to the fishing port.

There are no facilities to speak of, a little chiringuito beach shack sells drinks and snacks, and you can be assured of the warmest of welcomes by the owner, there are chemical toilets and bins provided and during the peak weeks there is lifeguard cover, but there are no restaurants for main meals.

A stop-off could be made on the way through in the little village of Galifa where there is one of the most wonderful ventas you could wish to find, the Casa Ramírez y Isabelita, which has been there, run by the same family, since 1927.

Hams hang from the roof, a tantalizing selection of wonderful cheeses and meats beckon from the cold counter, and a full supermarket and fresh veg selection makes it easy to put together an impromptu picnic. As with all these ventas, there is a bar for coffees and the restaurant area serves tapas, and light meals.

If you wanted a full restaurant meal, it would be necessary to head into Canteras, about 3km further towards Cartagena, where the Bar Moreno offer a menu del dia, or carry on for a further 2km towards Cartagena to stop at the atmospheric Sacramonte, which, although wonderfully Spanish and very popular with locals is fairly steeply priced, although the food is excellent.

Driving down to El Portus, there is a naturist colony stretching back into the hills from the road on the left hand side, and arriving at the anchor roundabout drivers can select either the left hand turn which drops down the hill to the rambla and turn right up the rambla into Playa Morena, or right down to Fishermans beach and the small number of houses clustering around the beach.

There is parking in the port, but it gets fairly packed in summer and it may be necessary to park a little way up the hill and walk down.

Fishermans beach is busier, a protected cove with a sloping beach, about 200mtrs long, and pebbly rather than sandy. The lifeguard is on duty from 11am-7pm in the summer and he said that although the beach shelf slopes fairly steeply to deep water, that there are no currents or rocks that present any great danger, and the beach was popular with families in the summer. There are toilets, water and bins provided.

Playa Moreno is accessed via the rambla, and although a much longer beach, was less populated as there are no lifeguard, water or toilet facilities.

 Access is also slightly more difficult for some as the beach is accessed across a slight ridge of rocks, which makes it impossible for boats to enter and difficult for those manoeuvering buggies or young children, whilst wheelchair access would not be possible.

It is, however, a sheltered beach, that doesnt get too crowded, and with interesting snorkeling opportunities for those who like to explore around the coastline. Whilst we were visiting a group of canoeists arrived, who canoe the area regularly and said there were no dangerous currents along the edges of the bay, so they use it frequently as a launch point.

El Portus has its fiesta the last week of August every year, so there is music and partying every night, with a wild foam party on the last weekend.

Both beaches are close to a naturist camp.

Beaches, ElPortus, map

Practical Information about El Portus beach, Cartagena Spain

Lifeguard on site from 1^st July to 31^st August between 11am and 7pm

Disabled toilets, beach snack bar, footwash services.

Please note: The area of beach which is closed off by the council is prone to rockfalls so although some people will have crossed through the safety barrier and be using the beach, if you choose to do so then be aware that this could be potentially dangerous. There are plenty of other places to sunbathe in the region where you are not at risk from falling rocks.