Cartagena Semana Santa 2012

Cartagena Spain- Semana Santa Programme 2012, English

Semana Santa in Cartagena is unique.

Its military background and long history  have given birth to regimented processions, lending it a special atmosphere and deserved status as being of international significance.

Although the processions are impressive in their scale and richness, there is still an incredible intimacy to Cartagenas Semana Santa, the narrow streets with crafted wrought iron balconies and sensuously curving modernist buildings create an atmosphere which includes those who watch the passing of satin and faith ,instead of leaving them watching from tiers of stands which strip the soul out of the act of penitence which these parades embody.
 There are four brotherhoods, Cofradias, the most famous being the Californiaswho wear red , and the Marrajos in deep purple with traditionally deep rivalry between the two.

To explain the functions of each and the details of this week would need many pages, so in the smallest space possible, these are their main jobs and when they participate.

The Royal and Illustrious Brotherhood of Our Lord Jesus of Nazareth, known as Los Marrajos.

The oldest brotherhood, dating back to the 17th century and the port of Cartagena, the nickname coming from the tradition that in order to pay for their procession, fishermen earnt the extra money needed by selling a special kind of fish, a mako shark, known as a marrajo.

They wear distinctive rich purple and organise the two main Good Friday Processions, the procession of the Promises of piety on holy Monday and of the True Cross on Saturday.

The Illustrious Brotherhood of the most Holy and Royal Christ of the Succourwas founded in 1691 as an aristocratic brotherhood  by the Duke of Veragua as a means of giving thanks for the miraculous cure of his son. He also built a spectacular chapel in the old cathedral of Cartagena, but sadly this was gutted during the Civil War. Their main job is to head the Via Crucis on the morning of Viernes de Dolores, an early morning event which begins at 4amon the first day of Semana Santa.

The Californiasdates back to the 18th century  and owes its name to the participation of a wealthy group of Californians and was  a well funded brotherhood which gathered an impressive collection of sculptures by the master sculptor Salzillo as the city enjoyed a time of economic stability and growth. Sadly most were destroyed during the turbulence of the Civil war, the present collection mainly created by Mariano Benlliure.

Theyre distinctive in their vibrant red habits, and are most in evidence on the Wednesday night in the great procession of the arrest of Christ, on the night of Viernes de Dolores, the Palm Sunday procession, the journey of the Apostles on Holy Tuesday and the procession of silence on Maundy Thursday.

The Royal and Illustrious brotherhood of our Lord Jesus resurrected. Glowing in white, this brotherhood is the youngest, founded in 1943 and organizes the procession of the resurrection on Sunday morning.

  
Viernes de Dolores, Friday 30th March

4am. Procession of the Cofradia de Cristo del Socorro, Departs Calle Concepción, arriving back at the same place around 7.45am
At four in the morning the procession leaves from the old Cathedral following the Via Crucis of La Ilustre Cofradia del Cristo delSocorro. Accompanied by a single drummer, the participants follow the Via Crucis. At this point the participants wear humble woolen robes and the mood is serious.
At 6amthe first mass is celebrated in the Iglesia de la Caridad.

Concepción, Plaza de San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire , Honda, Balcones Azules, Ignacio García, Plaza San Francisco (north side), Arco de la Caridad, San Vicente, Plaza del Sevillano, Serreta (second station in the church , Iglesia de la Stma. Virgen de la Caridad, stopping to celebrate Eucharist at 6am with the Patrona de Cartagena). Then at about 6.30amthe procession continues via Caridad, Plaza Risueño, Duque, Plaza de San Ginés (where the Vía Crucis ends with the singing of the Salve), Concepción.

5pm.Floral offering leaving from the Plaza del Ayuntamiento.
Hundreds of people dressed in traditional costumes leave the Plaza del Ayuntamiento and parade to the Iglesia de la Caridad where they make floral offerings to the patrona of Cartagena. It´s a good idea to get inside the church if you can, as from time to time the groups form up inside the church and dance in front of the altar .As the floral offering ends, the Via Crucis stops at the door of the church, both the tronos of Mary and Jesus bobbing to acknowledge the patrona before the Via Crucis continues.

6pmProcessional Via Crucis. This departs at 6pmfrom Plaza de la Merced. It then follows a route around the old town of  Cartagena, stopping at the church. When it finally reaches the Plaza de la Merced, the tronos split off, then meet together to tumultuous applause and fireworks. It´s a really special thing to do, following this procession and being part of it.

9pm. Procession Stmo Cristo de la Misericordia ( Cofradio California)
Departs from the church of Santa María de Gracia
Procession duration 4 hours.

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, San Sebastián Square, Puerta de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Juan XXIII Square, Parque, López Pinto Square, Serreta, Serreta Square, Caridad, Inmaculada Square, Duque, San Ginés Square, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire and Santa María de Gracia Church.

Saturday 31st March, Saturday of Passion
A multitude of individual tronos and processions criss-crossing the streets. It´s not the best evening to watch as the tronos are all over the place. They´re listed just in case anybody wants to try and watch this, but it´s not an easy one.

6pm - Our father Jesus of Nazareth, Marrajas
Departure from the Iglesia of Santo Domingo
Route: Mayor, San Sebastián Square, Jara, Campos, San Francisco, San Ginés Square, Duque, La Merced Square, San Diego, Bastarreche Square, Trovero Marin Avenue, Mompean bridge, Paseo Delicias and Santiago Apóstol Church

7pm, Our father Jesus of Medinaceli, Marrajas
Departure the Iglesia of Santa Maria de Gracia
Route: Aire, Cañón, Principe de Vergara, going up the Rampart, Muralla del Mar and University campus

8.30pm, Holy Virgin of Solitude, Marrajas
Departure from Calle San Diego, 8.30pm
Route: Jaime Bosch Square, San Diego, Merced Square, Duque, San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire  then back to San Diego

8pm Holy Christ of Agony, Marrajas
Departure 8pm from the Patronato Sagrado Corazon de Jesus School.
Route: Salida del Patronato en Calle Saura, Gloria, Subida a San Diego, Duque, Plaza del Risueño, Caridad, Arco de la Caridad, Plaza de San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire, Iglesia de Santa María.

7.30 pm  Penitential Via Crucis , Cofradia California
Route: Salida del Patronato en Calle Saura, Gloria, Subida a San Diego, Duque, Plaza del Risueño, Caridad, Arco de la Caridad, Plaza de San Francisco, Palas, San Miguel, Aire, Iglesia de Santa María

8.30pm Californias, Route: Menendez Pelayo, España Square (west

8.30pm Virgin coming back from the Calvario, Californias
Route: López Pinto, Parque, Santa Florentina, Puertas de Murcia

 
1st April, Domingo de Ramos, Palm Sunday
This is an important day for the Californias

5pm. Procession of the entrance of Jesus into Jerusalem ( Cofradio California)It´s nice one to watch as is very family orientated and many children participate in the procession . The procession leaves from the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia.
Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Puertas de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, López Pinto Square, Caridad, Duque, San Ginés Square, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire and back to the Church of  Santa María de Gracia

 
 
2nd April , Lunes Santo, Holy Monday
9pm. Procession de Promesas de la Santisima Virgen de la Piedad ( Cofradia Marraja) The first procession of the Marrajas.
Called the procession of promises due to the large quantity of these which accompany the procession of the Virgen of piety and charity.
Although this isnt the most impressive of processions, its of special significance to residents, with just one throne and 2 smaller images at the centre of a tide of devotion. The images arrive at the Iglesia de la Caridad in a  sea of emotion and the salve of Cartagenais sung by spectators, emotional and respectful, before the throne continues to Santa Maria de Gracia

 
Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Puertas de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, López Pinto Square, Caridad, Duque, San Ginés Square, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire and back to the church of Santa María de Gracia

 
3rdApril, Martes Santo, Holy Tuesday
This is an important day for the Military elements of Cartagena, with the three apostles departing from three different military buildings, Saint James from the Admiralty, Saint John from the Artillery Headquarters, and saint peter from the Military Arsenal. The three will then meet at the Plaza San Sebastia, from whence they will continue to the church of Santa María de Gracia

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The Journey of the Apostles.
This is an event full of local history, dating back to Cartgenas military and marine  past.
In 1755 the rigging staff who worked in the Military Arsenal asked if they could pay for the costs of transporting St Peter in the Procession of the arrest of Jesus, which was accepted, providing that Saint Peter went onto the military payroll.
Hes still there, shown as Pedro Marina Cartagena. Every Holy Tuesday he asks the admiral for leave to attend the procession which is granted to him, so following a prayer for all those who have given their lives for Spain, he is carried to the Plaza de Armas, where he is solemnly granted leave, on condition that he is back by Thursday. Naturally, he never is, so is solemnly arrested when he returns at the end of Semana Santa and held in formal military custody until the following year. From here, the float emerges from the military arsenal and heads to the church of Santa Maria de Gracia.
Saint John, meanwhile, has left the Museo Militar, Military museum, and Saint James has departed from the Muralla del Mar and the Palace of the Military Government which overlooks the portof Cartagena.

 8.30pmSaint Johndeparts from the Artillery Headquarters. Route: López Pinto Square, Serreta, Serreta Square, Caridad, Inmaculada Square, Duque, San Ginés Square, San Francisco Campos, Jara and San Sebastián Square.

8.40pm Saint James leaves the Naval headquarters
Route: Príncipe Vergara, Subida de las Monjas, Plaza Ayuntamiento, Cañón, Aire, San Miguel, Campos, San Francisco Square (south side), San Antonio el Pobre, San Gines Square, San Francisco, Campos, Jara and San Sebastián Square

9.15pmSaint Peter leaves from the Military Arsenal.
Route: Real, Castellini, Puerta de Murcia and San Sebastián Square
The three then meet in the Plaza San Sebastian at 10pm and then continue together along Mayor, Cañón, Aire to the church of  Santa María de Gracia

10pm Procession of the transfer of the apostles ( Cofradía California.)

Encuentro of the three apostles in front of the Palacio de Capitanía General

Following the encuentro in front of the Capitanía, the three processions join to travel along Mayor, Calle Aire and the churchof Sant María de Gracia.

4th April, Miercoles Santo, Holy Wednesday
This is the important day for the Californias.
This is truly one of the great processions of this Semana Santa, with 13 tronos participating and is the big day for the Cofradia California.

Before this leaves there is a theatrical performance at 5.45pmin the Plaza del Ayuntamiento of the trial of Christ in which Pontius Pilate washes his hands of the whole situation by throwing the water over the watching crowd.
Following the theatrical representation the crowds file off to the churchof Santa Mariato view the tronos all lined up ready for departure.
The procession follows the story of the betrayal of Christ, the story shown in order by the procession of the tronos. Its a huge procession, full of light, flowers, music, swaying satin and colour.

It leaves at 9pm from Santa Maria de Gracia and wont arrive back there until 3am.

5.45pm Plaza San Francisco. Theatrical representation of the act of Pontius Pilate condemning Jesus to death.

9pm. Procession of the taking of Christ, ( Cofradia California)

Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, San Sebastián Square, Puerta de Murcia, Sagasta, Tolosa Latour, Carmen, Santa Florentina,Parque, Serreta, Serreta Square, Caridad, Inmaculada Square, Duque, San Ginés, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire, and back to the churcjh of  Santa María de Gracia

 
5th April, Jueves Santo, Holy Thursday
On this night the lights are extinguished and the penitents walk in silence. It´s an atmospheric, moving procession, pierced only by the sound of a Saeta, sung from a balcony above the street. If possible, stand near to the entrance of the Church, as it´s really interesting watching the pasos re-entering the church and the moment when the Hail Mary is sung is really emotional and very moving.

9.15pm. Solemn procession of silence( Cofradia California)
Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, San Sebastián Square, Puerta de Murcia, Santa Florentina, Parque, López Pinto Square, Serreta, Serreta Square, Caridad, Inmaculada Square, Duque, San Ginés Square, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire and back to the Iglesia of santa Maria de Gracia where the traditional Hail Mary is sung as the pasos re-enter the church.

 
6th April, Viernes Santo, Good Friday
Processions of the early morning, (Cofradia Marraja)
These are some of the most atmospheric and meaningful acts of the week yet are rarely seen by visitors because they take place before dawn on the morning of Good Friday

2.45 , 3am, 3.10am, 3.20am, 5am

2.45am, Veronica leaves the Church of Santa Maria de Gracia.
Route: Aire, San Miguel, Campos, San Francisco Square, Arco de la Caridad, Caridad, Don Roque, Saura, Gloria, San Diego and La Merced Square.

3am. Jesus of Nazarethleaves the santa Lucia Fish market
Route: Pescadería, Jesus Street, Pinacho, Paseo Delicias, Mompean bridge, Trovero Marin Avenue, Bastarreche, San Diegoand La Merced Square

3.10am.  Jesus of Medinaceli leaves the Polytechnic University of Cartagena
Route: University, Carlos IIIWall, San Diego, joining up with  the first procession in Gloria Street.

3.20am The Virgin of Sorrow. leaves the church of Santa Maria de Gracia.
Route: Aire, Jara, Campos, san Francisco Square, Arco de la caridad, Caridad, Don Roque and La Merced Square

At 5am there is an encuentro, ie all the processions come together nad meet in the Plaza de la Merced, then carry on together to the church, via Duque, San Francisco, Campos, San Miguel, Aire, Cañón, Mayor, San Sebastian Square, Aire

9pm. Procession del Santo Entierro. ( Cofradia Marraja)
The burial of Christ following his crucifiction.
12 great floats take place in this procession of the Holy Burial, which holds some of the greatest sculptural works in Cartagenas collection. Its the longest of the processions, but holds some of the most beautiful tronos you will see throughout the week
Route: Aire, Cañón, Mayor, Puerta de Murcia, Sagasta, Tolosa Latour, Carmen, Santa Florentina, Parque, Serreta, Duque, San Francisco, Campos, Jara, Aire

 
7thApril, Sabado Santo, Easter Saturday

8pmProcession of the Vera Cruz, true cross, ( Cofradia Marraja)

This procession leaves at 8pm, and includes one trono carried by women only, the Virgen de la Soledad de los pobres.

Route: Aire, San Miguel, Campos, San Francisco Square, San Ginés Square, Duque, Caridad, Serreta, Lopez Pinto Square, Parque, Santa Florentina, Puerta de Murcia, Mayor, Cañón, Aire

8th April, Domingo de Resurrección, Resurrection Sunday
A total change. White, light , flowers, a celebration of Christ arisen, an enjoyable family parade full of light and flowers. pay particular attention to the trono of saint peter, dressed with nets full of fish.

10.30 Procession of the resurrection.

Route: Aire, Jara, Campos, San Francisco, San Ginés Square, Duque, Risueño Square, Caridad, Serreta, López Pinto Square, Parque, Juan XXIII Square, Canales, Carmen, Puertas de Murcia, San Sebastián Square, Mayor, Cañón, Aire

Which are the best things to see in Cartagenas Semana Santa?

There are many places where its not necessary to buy a seat, but to purchase one is an excellent idea as the full processions can take 4-6 hours to pass by. Seats are sold next to Santa Maria de Gracia or Plaza San Sebastian.

 If you have time, walk the route and choose where to sit as the narrower streets have more atmosphere and street lighting does make a big difference to the experience.

Everything is worth seeing, but if we were forced to pick, these are the main ones.

 
30th March, Viernes de Dolores, Day of the Patrona.
5pm, Ofrenda floral, a charming procession in which families dress in folk costume and make floral offerings to the towns patron saint. Get to the Plaza early and soak up the atmosphere. If you can, follow the Via Crucis or try to be near the entrance of the church as the flowers arrive. Last year we followed the Via Crucis from the church, had a bit of tapas, then watched the first parade. It was a really good experience.

Sunday 1st April, Palm Sunday
5pm, Procession of the palms, childrens procession, well worth seeing.

Holy Wednesday 4th April
Theatrical representation of the trial of Christ in the Plaza del Ayuntamiento at 5.45pm followed by the first of the large processions, which leaves at 9pm, and takes 6 hours to complete the route.In between , many file into the church to see the tronos or eat.

Thursday 5th  8.45pm Procession of silence. Atmospheric, sombre, spectacular. Try and be at the church as the tronos arrive, it´s a bit of a crush, but a real experience.

Friday 6th 9pm. Procession of the Santo Entierro. The night of the big sculptures, with a good number of tronos participating

Sunday 8th, Resurrection Sunday, 10.30 Procession, full of light and life to celebrate the resurrection. A lovely occasion, totally different from the rest of the week.