A 1-km walk with fabulous views alongside the Sanctuary of Santa Eulalia, Totana

This Vía Crucis of Santa Eulalia is an unexpected gem, set in the verdant hillsides of the Sierra Espuña.

The road winds uphill for a kilometre from the picnic area of El Ángel, which is opposite the sanctuary of Santa Eulalia, sculptures of the stations of the cross glowing white against the pine-clad rocks of the roadside as the path leads to a vast figure of Christ and glorious views out across the agricultural plains below.

It's a fabulous place to bring the visitors and show them just how lucky you are to live in Murcia, and is a calm oasis of pine-scented soul food when a gentle walk uphill is a welcome tonic from the summer heat on a breezy July evening.

And to top it all off, there's a picnic area at the bottom, calling out for a seat in the shade, a good book and a crunchy sandwich!

Santa Eulalia

Opposite the Vía Crucis is the Santuario de la Santa, a former religious structure which has been converted into a hotel and leisure complex. The hotel is the site of artisan fairs on Sunday mornings throughout the cooler months and is also widely used for functions and special occasions. It has a beautifully painted chapel which is the home of the image of Santa Eulalia of Mérida, the patron saint of Totana, who is carried down 7 kilometres into town annually in a Romeria accompanied by thousands of locals.

Her descent and subsequent ascent along the twisting road between the sanctuary and the town are huge events locally, and the whole area surrounding the sanctuary is filled with families and friends enjoying a convivial meal after a good walk: participation in this annual event is an experience to be enjoyed should the opportunity present itself!

Santa Eulalia de Mérida is not a local saint but was brought to this area by the Order of Santiago, a community of religious knights who took control of the area in 1257 after the Kingdom of Murcia was taken from the Moors by the Kingdom of Castilla. Prior to that, Murcia had been in the hands of the Moors for more than 500 years and had formed part of the Moorish Kingdom of Tudmir. 

Slowly the Christian Kingdoms of northern Spain re-took the territories ruled by the Moors and in 1243 the Treaty of Alcaraz was signed, cementing the Reconquista of the Kingdom of Murcia by Prince Alfonso (later Alfonso X “El Sabio”) of Castilla. Alfonso named his brother Manuel as governor before placing both Aledo and Totana in the hands of the Order of Santiago in 1257, and from that point onwards it was the Order who appointed the “concejiles” (Mayors) and ecclesiastical authorities.

Santa Eulalia was the patron saint of the order of Santiago and a small centre of worship was established in this location, although at that point the fortress of Aledo was significatly more important as the area lay on the border with the last remaining Nazrid Kingdom of Granada, and was subject to frequent incursions from across the border. The Torre de Homenaje and medieval walls can still be seen today in Aledo.

Santa Eulalia is the patron of the ill and many miracles pertaining to healing and cripples are attributed to her intervention. She was martyred at the age of twelve, suffering horrendous torture at the hands of the Romans after refusing to make offerings to the Roman gods.

She was literally torn to pieces by her executioners, who ripped her body with iron hooks, cutting off her breasts and burning her flesh until she suffocated from the smoke. At the moment of her death a white dove is said to have emerged from her mouth and snow fell out of nowhere to cover her body.

Her cult virtually died out in the 14th century, but by the 16th century a more substantial building had been erected in Totana and the current sanctuary continued to evolve until the present day.

The Vía Crucis

The words Via Crucis mean Way of the Cross, representing the principal moments experienced by Jesus during the last days of his life, crucifixion and subsequent resurrection.

There are Via Crucis throughout Spain, often to be found as tiled plaques or crosses on the wall of village houses, or very occasionally, as in this particular case, in sculptural form. During Lent it is customary to follow the route of the Via Crucis, stopping at each point for a biblical reading, a prayer, a lesson, or a song. In Murcia the Via Crucis is followed each Wednesday morning at 6am, before the break light of dawn, in Cartagena enormous gilded "tronos", each carried by 100 people, sway through the streets bearing Jesus and Mary resplendent in a sea of flowers, in Moratalla the Via Crucis is celebrated with a theatrical journey through the stations of the cross, culminating in the hair-raising crucifixion in the church square, complete with thunder and lightning, while in Lorca dozens of robed penitents walk the route barefoot, carrying wooden crosses.

This sculptural Via Crucis was built in 1965, by Don Juan José Noguera, who was the priest at the church in the sanctuary, and comprises 14 pieces by Murcia sculptor Anastasio Martínez Valcárcel, including the monumental 9-metre Sagrado Corazon de Jesus which dominates the surrounding countryside.

This is a stunning collection of curvaceous, sensual and elegant pieces, portraying the emotional story of the last days of Christ, set in the natural surroundings of the Sierra Espuña.

Although they were created in the 1960's, the works are fresh and contemporary, and in spite of the marked contrast with the rocks and pines of the hillside are at one with nature, their flowing lines complementing the smooth rocks and twisting roots, flowers and mosses which immerse them. They rise from the foliage to project their message then disappear back into the landscape as the onlooker continues on the journey followed by Christ in the last week of his life.

At the last station visitors stop off to absorb the countryside below them spread beneath their feet and contemplate the sorrow of those who loved him, before turning to witness the glory of the resurrection as the immense white figure of Christ resurrected punches through the bright blue skyline.

Religion or not, it's an uplifting experience to see such beautiful pieces in an open-air setting and drink in the air as you walk.

Those walking this Vía Crucis can park in the El Ángel car park and barbecue area at the bottom and walk approximately one kilometre up the hill, or persuade the car driver to leave the passengers at the top so they can have the luxury of only having to walk down. Those with restricted mobility can enjoy a steady drive up and down, slowing to observe the sculptures and the magnificent views at the top.

The first piece seen in the car park is the Angel, made by the father of the man who sculpted the Vía Crucis, Nicolas Martinez, and points the way up the hill.

The stations are then positioned on both sides of the road as follows

- Jesus is condemned to death

- Jesus accepts the burden of the cross

- Jesus falls for the first time

- Jesus meets his mother, Mary

- Simon helps Jesus to shoulder his burden

- The feet of Jesus are washed

- Jesus falls for the second time

- Jesus urges the daughters of Jerusalem not to cry for him

- Jesus falls for the third time

- Jesus is stripped of his garments

- Jesus is nailed to the cross

- Jesus dies on the cross

- Jesus in the arms of his mother

- Jesus in the tomb

- Jesus arisen

Enjoy!

IMPORTANT NOTE

Fires, gas cookers and barbeques of any sort are banned between the end of April and the end of October. If the autumn is wet the ban is lifted between November and December, but it is advisable to check before lighting fires during these months. From January to March, barbecues are permitted, but only in the units provided.

Access

This is an uphill road and is not the easiest of places for those with physical disabilities to access. The car park at the top gives splendid views but both of the viewing points have stepped access, so are not easy to negotiate for wheelchair users, although the sculptures can be clearly seen from a car.

The sanctuary is on the main Totana-Aledo road, a winding uphill route which twists through the forest and is a pleasant if slow journey. The Via Crucis is just a short distance past the sanctuary of Santa Eulalia on the left and from here Aledo, a mediaeval hilltop town, is just a short drive away, with yet more stunning views. The snow houses are this side of the Sierra Espuña.

Driving into the centre of Totana, you will see the signposts for the Sanctuary, Sierra Espuña and Aledo. Cross the river alongside the Town Hall, then follow the road around to the left up Santa Eulalia. This is the main road out of the back of Totana.

Take note of the Ermita de San Roque, set back off the road a short distance from the town centre; this small church is where Santa Eulalia is received and spends the night on her journey down into the town every year.

Click for more information about the municipality of Totana.

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