10 great ways to enjoy a day out in and around Totana

From the Bronze Age to the 21^st century, tradition and scenery in the south-west of Murcia

Close to the beaches of the Bay of Mazarrón and closer still to the mountains of Sierra Espuña, Totana in south-western Murcia boasts a surprising array of attractions provided by the landscape itself and the activities of Mankind here over the last 6,000 years!

The buildings in the town centre include many noble homes dating from the 18^th and 19^th centuries, at the centre of which are the majestic church and tower of Santiago, the Town Hall and a fountain sculpted by Juan de Uzeta in pink and black jasper, while just up the hill is the Arco de las Ollerías, an aqueduct which was used to bring water to the townspeople and the potteries of Totana in centuries past.

Just out of town are the picturesque areas of Los Huertos, where villas houses sit among the almond, lemon and orange trees, and La Santa, named so on account of the Sanctuary of the patron, Santa Eulalia de Mérida – a spectacular monument and one which cannot be missed.

Here are just a few hints to help you find your way as you explore this corner of Murcia!

1 – A jewel in the pine forest

The Sanctuary of Santa Eulalia de Mérida, known in Totana simply as “La Santa”, is 7 km from the town in the foothills of Sierra Espuña, and is a monastery founded in the 16^th century, complete with its own church. The church is decorated with extraordinary murals painted in the early 17^th century, making the interior just as much of a must-see item as the beautiful setting outside!

2 – The Troy of the West

One of the most remarkable things to be seen in the municipality of Totana is undoubtedly La Bastida, the remains of what is believed to have been the most powerful city in continental Europe during the Bronze Age, 4,200 years ago. La Bastida is a fortified settlement which has been compared to the legendary city of Troy, and homes, burial sites and ceramic objects have all been found and are on display.

The site is 6 km north-west of Totana itself on a steep hill at the confluence between the Rambla de Lebor and the Salado ravine and was built when settlers first started to abandon a nomadic hunter-gatherer existence following the advent of farming and livestock herding. Since it was discovered in 1869 it has been found that around 1,000 people lived here approximately 3,800 years ago, and dozens of homes have been found staggered along the slopes of the hill.

Their tombs, which are under the floor of the houses, usually contained one or sometimes two individuals in a shrunken position and, on occasion, ceramic bowls and pots, weapons, copper or silver tools and ornaments.

Guided visits last approximately 2 hours and booking can be completed here.

3 – The pure craftsmanship of Totana

One of the mottos of Totana says that the town “is crafts and pottery", and the rich Muslim heritage has contributed to this being one of the most active and productive in the field of ceramics and pottery. Here you can visit displays, outlets and demonstrations in the workshops of the old Barrio de las Ollerías, where in the olden days the professional potters were located.

4 – The fragrant aroma of orange blossom

Venture into the orchards of Totana without a route or guide and lose yourself amongst the almond, orange, and lemon trees and the typical large country villas - it's a pure delight for the senses. The charm of this walk is at its highest in spring, when both the good weather and the fragrance of orange blossom are more intense.

5 – The characteristic flavour of local ground paprika!

In Totana one of the most typical culinary specialities is the "torta de pimiento molido" (along with the "mantellina" and the "santiaguitos"). The paprika flatbreads are perfect for breakfast and snacks, the "mantellina" is a traditional liquor with honey, lemon and aniseed, and the "santiaguito" is a delicious sweet pastry made with marcona almonds. Bon Appétit!

6 – Fresh mountain air

If you’re new to the Region of Murcia it might be all too easy to imagine that it is all dry and brown, but anyone travelling through the south-west will soon become aware of the mountain range of Sierra Espuña. Mostly covered in dense pine forests this is the “green lung” of Murcia, and it’s full of beautiful landscapes, adventure sport opportunities and ecological variety as well as iconic sites such as the snow wells, from where ice was supplied to the cities of Murcia and Cartagena before the advent of industrial refrigeration!

And if you’re lucky, you might have a chance encounter with one of the magnificent Barbary sheep which live in the mountains – keep your camera at the ready!

7 – Semana Santa

The only way to fully understand the unique Holy Week processions of Totana is to experience them yourself! Both visitors and local can take part in the processions, and it is unusual to see how many of those taking part break ranks to share a snack with family and friends in the local bars on the way! Typically, these snacks might include "pipirrana" (a salad with onion, tomato, green pepper and cucumber), "pararajotes" (a sugar-battered lemon leaf) and "empanadillas" (small pasties).

8 – A great hearty meal

The rich history and culture of Totana's streets and farmland is clearly represented through its cuisine, which is inevitably linked to the cycle of seasons and festivals. In general, the foods provided by the land are combined in simple ways, such as "migas con tropezones" (flour crumbs with small pieces of pork and other savoury surprises) and "arroz con conejo y caracoles" (rice with rabbit and snails).

9 – Join in the Romería!

La Romería de la Santa is one of the most joyful and well-known popular expressions of local identity in the Region of Murcia, with thousands accompanying the figure of Santa Eulalia as she makes the journey back to her Sanctuary every January after spending the festive season in the town. Musical "cuadrilla” groups join the “romeros" to provide a special atmosphere as they pay tribute to the patron saint, Santa Eulalia, and of course visitors are more than welcome to join the fun!

10 – The monuments and buildings of the old centre

Totana can easily be explored on foot, and you’ll be captivated by a pleasant walk taking in the most interesting parts of the town. These include the church of Santiago, the Juan de Uzeta Fountain and the Ollerías Arch, and throughout you can take your bearings from the unmistakeable “Toscana” tower.

Source: ITREM