A morning out in Águilas

What to do on a morning out in Águilas

Itinerary

Pick up map from tourist office
Visit to the Casino
Coffee in the Plaza de Espana, and maybe a naughty cake.....Visit to the Archaeological museum
Visit to the Castillo de San Juan
Photo opportunity by the Monumento al Ferrocarril
Lunch

There is plenty of parking around the Plaza de España and in the surrounding streets, or down along the seafront, particularly in winter. 

The start point is the Tourist Information Office, Tel 968 49 32 85, which is the best place to pick up a map and is located on the corner of Plaza de Alfonso Escamez, almost opposite to the Casino, one of the grand old buildings built during 1895, when it would have been the centre of civilized society in the town, so call in for a map first, then walk across into the Casino.

Wall paintings by Murcian artist, Jose Sanchez, lend a feeling of faded splendour and days gone by, recalling the times when the Casino was frequented by those engaged in the project to build the Lorca- Baza- Aguilas Railway , a project undertaken by the British, in the form of The  South Eastern Railway Company, who were also responsible for starting the first ever football team in Spain. 

A local lady told us there are also a number of families in the area with half British names, as some moved here to work and never left, and an excellent book is available from booksellers in the town which gives the history of the whole railway project, written in both English and Spanish. Its called Aguilas y los Ingleses, and is written by Antonio Hernandez Moreno. It also covers the history of esparto production, which is a fascinating topic on its own and another extremely important indutry in the history of Águilas.

 Its well worth calling in to have a look at the Casino, before walking along a couple of short streets to the Plaza de España, a tranquil, shaded haven where a very pleasurable cup of coffee can be enjoyed in the outdoor seating areas, before either walking up, or driving to the Castillo high on the hill above you. The Plaza de España is home to the main parroquial church of san José, as well as the Town Hall or Ayuntamiento, which is an interesting building with a moorish-style fachada.This Plaza is the location for many cultural events and celebrations and some of the key acts of the annual carnival take place here.

From here those with an interest in history can call in at the Archaeological Museum where a good mixture of artefcts relating to the local history of the area can be seen.

Alternatively, if you have a sweet tooth, check out Confiteria Enrique, which has been in the same location in the Plaza de España since 1880. We literally gasped when we walked in through the door looking for a Roscon just before Three Kings, as the place was overflowing with cream filled treats, magnificent great horns stuffed with cream and chocolate,and enormous nests of sweet orange cream in true traditional Spanish style. Go on, you'll burn it off climbing up the hill in a minute....

To access the castle, walk back to the tourist office, go straight up Calle Murillo, and you'll see steps going up at the end of the street in front of you. These cut through to the street behind, which then climbs up to the castle. Its a good, steep walk, so don't even attempt it unless you're pretty fit.

Its possible to drive up during the winter, but be a bit careful attempting this during high summer as it's not the easiest place to park, with only limited numbers of spaces, and some may find the prospect of a 3 point turn a little daunting. Drive straight up Calle Murillo, and take the second turn on the left, which takes you straight into a steep corner and up. There is parking right at the foot of the steps.

The castle now has a lift to take visitors up to the main entrance, and the views at the top are absolutely stunning.

The Castillo de San Juan that we see today dates back to 1756, although there were other towers built on the same location hundreds of years before, with the ruins of a hexagonal arab Hisn the earliest confirmed remains dating from the latter years of Moorish occupation in the 11th century.

Alfonso X is known to have maintained a garrison here between1252-1284 to warn Lorca of possible attack from the Berber Pirates, a menace which harassed and attacked this coast for hundreds of years, destroying the structures preceding this one on more than one occasion, the last written record being in 1643 when a communication was sent to the King informing him that the Moors had attacked and destroyed the castle.

The existing  replacement was not erected until 1756, and was dedicated to San Juan, Saint John, comprising three distinct structures; The San Pedro cannon battery, the ammunition depot and store and the central courtyard and artillery terrace.

 Exhibits have been mounted inside which give interesting information about the lot of a serving soldier, as well as displays which feature the main products of the town, fish, esparto and ores, but the main reason for visiting the Castle has to be the stunning views, and they really are stunning.

There's a very interesting audiovisual, which shows the journey of a descendant of one of the team who built the railway re-tracing his grand-father's steps and visiting the area, and other displays which give more information about the pre-historical finds surrounding Aguilas. There's not a huge amount of display cases to see, although the structure of the fortress is very unusual and presents one great view after another.

 Leaving the castle, go back down to the bottom and head for the sea, aiming to arrive in the Explanada del Puerto.

At the end of this, on the left hand side, you'll see the Monumento al Ferrocarril, a magnificent steam engine, built in Glasgow in 1889 and shipped over to work on the newly constructed line in Aguilas.

Incredibly, this train remained in service until 1967, and was erected here in homage to the prosperity the line brought to the area, and the men who built it.

Where to Eat - Aguilas

By now the big cream cake will have worn off  a bit and it's likely that hunger pangs will be making their presence felt. There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along the seafront, but we were recommended to carry on a little further along the bay, heading for the pharmacy marked on the tourist map opposite the Puerto Deportivo.

We were advised that the large restaurant on the corner did a reasonable del dia on a Sunday and was well-priced during the week, but we spotted La Tasca on the corner of Calle del Aire and Paseo de la Estacion, a nicely typical Spanish traditional restaurant advertising a Sunday menu  and it was excellent. Salad and bread, rice, steak, dessert and wine at a very good price.

Have a look at the pharmacy opposite on your way out, the hand painted tiles make it one of the nicest looking pharmacies around.

There are local manufacturers of ceramics right across the region, and you'll be surprised how inexpensive it is to have beautiful decorative panels like these made up to your own specification at many of the workshops. The artisans will paint your own designs on plates, mugs, dishes or tiles, making a stunning commemorative gift or personal touch for your own home.

And prices are very reasonable.

Castillo de San Juan Opening Hours and Charges

Practicalities

Castillo de San Juan, Entry 2 euros adults, 1 euro groups. Click for seasonal opening hours.Castillo de San Juan

 Casino, train, museum, no charge, coffee reasonable, cake 1.20, lots of calories but thoroughly enjoyable, lunch excellent.

 Would we recommend it?

Absolutely, we had a great morning out.  Only downside is the steepness going up to the Castillo, but it's an excellent way to wear out the kids if they've got energy to burn.

More information about Águilas including beaches, what to see, what's on and tourist information can be found on ÁGUILAS TODAY