ARCHIVED - April 23, El Entierro de la Sardina, the biggest parade of the year in the city of Murcia

The Burial of the Sardine marks the climax of the week-long Fiestas de Primavera in Murcia

The parade and celebrations have been awarded International Tourist Interest

No sooner has the solemnity of the Easter Week processions ended in the city of Murcia than the city embarks on another whole week of fiestas, this time much lighter in mood, with the Fiestas de Primavera (spring fiestas), among which two events have been awarded International Tourist Interest status.

The first of these, the Bando de la Huerta, takes place on the Tuesday of the Fiestas de Primavera, and although there is a parade involved, for most people the event is actually a let-your-hair-down party which has to be seen to be believed.

But for true spectacle, the second one, the Entierro de la Sardina, is a must-see event, as the population of the city swells for a day to over a million, all of them eager to witness the biggest and most exuberant parade of the year. The scale of the celebrations dwarfs even those of Semana Santa and the arrival of the Three Kings, with the emphasis very much on the outlandish and the exotic: it is probably the only time of the year when dragons and elephants might be seen walking along the Gran Vía, accompanied by very scantily clad Brazilian dancers (for some reason it is very important to the Murcianos that they should always be Brazilian!)

The "Burial of the Sardine" (which is in fact cremated) dates back to the mid-19th century, when a group of well-to-do young students decided to carry out a celebration similar to those which they had seen in Madrid, part of which was the ceremonial death of the sardine, including the reading of his last will and testament.

This all sounds quite extraordinary to English ears, but celebrations involving the burial or burning of a sardine are quite commonplace in Spain and have their roots in pagan celebrations, subsequently adopted by other cultures including the Romans, symbolizing an act of cleansing. Burning the old allows the growth of the new, and is a process of regeneration and liberation, and burning a figure at the end of a festival allows order to be restored following the temporary subversion of order during the festival.

Which, put in ordinary language, means that virtually anything goes during the riotous days of partying and carnival atmosphere as long as everything is put right by this one act at the end of it all!

The Sardineros (the groups and people participating) all have mythological names, so during the week and in the parade itself the figures on display include Vulcan, Neptune, Ulysses, Eros and Hercules!

There are relatively minor parades on the Thursday and Friday and this year, as the event returns after Covid forced its cancellation in both 2020 and 2021, there is a children's Entierro. But these are nowhere near the scale of what happens on Saturday night, when enormous fantastical floats, pink glittering ships with grotesque statues and soaring figures parade through the streets, guarded by masked figures bearing torches in their hands.

The torches are there for a very good reason; the floats are under constant attack from the public, as they're loaded to the roof with toys, sweets and goodies which are flung (or in some cases fired from cannon) into the crowds. Youngsters run around with enormous carrier bags picking up anything they can get hold of, the torchbearers holding them back so they don´t run under the moving floats.

Before the parade visitors to the city often indulge in a bite to eat in the outdoor "Barracas" which have been open all week, located in virtually every green garden and park space throughout the city – click here for information regarding the typical fare served in these establishments.

The schedule of events leading up to the Entierro in 2022 is as follows (pending confirmation from the Town Hall):

Wednesday April 20

10.00: “Sardinera Mass” and a floral offering to the Virgen de la Fuensanta, the patron of Murcia, in the Cathedral.

12.00: The presentation of the honorary “Gran Pez” (big fish) and Doña Sardina (Lady Sardine) for this year’s parade in the Town Hall.

20.00: Children’s Entierro de la Sardina parade, starting at Centrofama on Avenida Gutiérrez Mellado.

Thursday April 21

18.30: The Sardina arrives in Murcia at its temporary home in the district of San Antoliín.

20.00: A parade is held to celebrate the arrival of the Sardine, beginning in the Plaza Cardenal Belluga outside the Cathedral.

Friday April 22

20.00: The reading of the Last Will and Testament of the Sardine in Avenida Gutiérrez Mellado followed by a vigil at the Town Hall.

Saturday April 23

13.00: The parade of Doña Sardina begins in Plaza Cardenal Belluga, with the gits dispersed into the crowds being more sought after by adults.

Route: Plaza Belluga, Calle Salzillo, Trapería, Plaza Santo Domingo, Avenida Alfonso X el Sabio, Plaza Circular (ending at approximately 14.30 amid firecrackers).

20.30: The main Entierro de la Sardina parade begins in Avenida San Juan de la Cruz, on the southern side of the river.

Route: Avenida San Juan de la Cruz, Calle Santa Joaquina de Vedruna, Calle Princesa, Calle Alameda de Colón, Puente Viejo, Plaza Martínez Tornel, Gran Vía Salzillo, Plaza Fuensanta, Avenida de la Constitución, Plaza Circular, Avenida Primo de Rivera, Plaza Díez de Revenga, Avenida Ronda Norte, Plaza de Castilla.

The parade ends at approximately 1.00 and shortly afterwards the Sardine is ceremoniously cremated in Plaza Martínez Tornel, next to the river and the Glorieta de España, amid a massive firework display.

Note: Under no circumstances should anyone imagine that it will be possible to park in or around the city centre! On this date and on the following Saturday, when the Entierro de la Sardina takes place, it is common to find cars parked on the hard shoulder of the motorway which skirts Murcia. It will be necessary to accept that a fair walk will be needed to reach the parks and gardens of the city from wherever you leave the car!

Images: Murcia Turística

For more local news, events and other information go to the City of Murcia section of Murcia Today.